maciek M.
Google
Brown Bag Sandwich on 22nd Street: A Neighborhood Hopeful That Doesn’t Quite Hold Together
New York has a way of elevating the humble chopped cheese into something almost ceremonial. It’s the city’s unofficial handshake, a sandwich that carries with it the promise of comfort, immediacy, and a certain democratic charm. Brown Bag Sandwich on 22nd Street seems to understand this mythology. The room is tidy, the staff unfailingly gracious, and the menu reads like a curated tour through bodega Americana.
But the chopped cheese I ordered, ground beef, onions, Lawry’s seasoning, American cheese, tomato, shredded iceberg, house bodega sauce, all on a sesame hero, never rises to the occasion. What should be a layered, messy harmony arrives instead as a blunt instrument. The first and last impression is salt, followed closely by grease, the kind that clings to the palate long after the sandwich itself has given up its secrets.
The beef, ground rather than chopped (it looks, feels and tastes this way), cooks into a dense, uniform slab that resists nuance. The iceberg, applied with enthusiasm if not intention, offers a single note of crunch that quickly becomes the dominant texture. Tomato, cheese, onions, the house sauce, they recede into the background, present in theory but not in effect. The sandwich feels less constructed than assembled, as if the ingredients were introduced to one another but never properly encouraged to mingle.
It’s not for lack of care elsewhere. The service is warm in a way that feels increasingly rare in fast-casual Manhattan, attentive without being performative. The pickle, while unremarkable, is crisp enough to suggest someone is paying attention.
Still, walking out, I found myself tempering the optimism I’d brought with me. Working just around the corner, I had imagined Brown Bag becoming a dependable midday refuge, the sort of place you recommend to colleagues without hesitation. Instead, I’m left wondering whether the rest of the menu suffers from the same heavy-handedness.
Two stars, then, for intention over execution. Brown Bag Sandwich has the bones of a neighborhood fixture. What it needs now is a sandwich worthy of the welcome.