Liz L.
Yelp
The things that are wrong with Smoke House are the very things that are so right with it. Let me explain.
As everyone here says, this is an enveloping throwback to a time in the golden age of Hollywood when dark spaces with luxurious deep red leather banquettes welcomed A-listers as they made their way past a black velvet bar, nodding and shaking hands with other celebs in the industry to have a long lunch of cocktails and steak. All those glam elements remain and one is reminded instantly of West Hollywood clubs as if they outgrew their cramped headquarters and moved to Toluca Lake where they could stretch out and relax amid beautiful old trees that line the surrounding streets in this upscale neighborhood.
One man's vintage is another's dated. For me it is both, and I have to say, I love the old school qualities that have kept Smoke House going strong for decades.
It could be a hidden treasure, unless you are one of the fortunati who know Lakeside Golf Club right next door. That and the business magnates that still come here to make epic deals keep the glamour intact and you feel it when you come in what is a rather inauspicious entrance. Once you reach the top of a short flight of stairs, Smoke House expands before your eyes and room after room appears. Here is where you could have that '40s retro wedding party, with a dance floor and stage to boot.
Pictures will say more than I should here about the decor. Notice that, while it may seem to be yesteryear, i.e., the 1950s, there are fresh orchids all over, sparkling glassware, thick linens, deep, comfy seating and everything from floor to ceiling is spotless.
The greeters act as if you are a long lost friend and the servers are all professional, cheerful, and solicitous. Several stopped by to make sure we had what we needed and Ryan, our personal attendant, was the epitome of efficiency and caring. He noticed when we ran out of something and brought it, unasked. Isn't that extra?
The food we ordered was good, even very good, but not unique or highly flavorful. For a fleeting moment, I feared there was bacon in the spinach dip but we came to the conclusion that it seemed so because of its smoked gouda cheese and I relaxed. It was delicious and Ryan saw to it that we had two rounds of chips to go with it.
I ordered the Mescalita made with famed 400 Conejos mezcal and it was smoky, edgy, and wonderful. Then we had the joy of choosing from a dozen exceptional desserts all made, save one, by the house pastry team. They looked and tasted exquisite.
Parking -- a usual fright, especially in WeHo or BH -- was a breeze. There is a huge parking lot adjacent to the restaurant and valet parking. We saw a shady spot (on a scorching hot day) on a nearby street and chose that instead, just to keep the car from melting outright. A short walk gave us a chance to appreciate the quiet beauty of Toluca Lake.
If I were to give Smoke House a few suggestions, they would be: make sure the vegetarian or vegan offerings are marked clearly as such so no one has to guess; keep the kitchen door closed (perhaps it was only open because of the heat this particular day?), as the bright lights and controlled chaos therein interrupt and spoil the intimate clubby darkness that characterizes the rest of the place.
Also, the Mescalita arrived in a cracked glass. Once we noticed it, Ryan whisked it away. A fresh cocktail and discount on the one we received broken would have been a gracious touch, as cracked glasses are a huge no-no in culinary establishments and against HACCP rules. Neither was offered.
The prices are good. The food was fresh. Our carrot cake was loaded with fresh carrots and the vegetables in my Pasta Primavera were crisp, as they should be. The service was a bit slow but then again, the place is huge and has only one kitchen, it was pretty full of diners when we were there at an off afternoon hour. It wasn't Ryan's fault, but I don't want you to be impatient.
No one hurried us. There were people lingering at the bar the whole time we were there. This is a place that you can come to, feel at home, relax, know you will eat a very good meal and be appreciated, away from the bustle and frenetics of the usual L.A. restaurant scene. We are sure to return.