Cadet
Restaurant · Mildmay ·
Wine bar with charcuterie, French-European small plates
Wine bar with charcuterie, French-European small plates
"Eater London’s Restaurant of the Year 2022 comprises three discrete yet intertwined endeavors. Downstairs in the basement kitchen, George Jephson butchers whole animals, repurposing them as immaculate charcuterie, while upstairs, chef Mike Murphy uses excellent ingredients to prepare simple plates that lean French and southern European — think trout poached in butter with roe and sorrel; or a roast game bird with quince and bitter leaves. Sommeliers Tom Beattie and Fran Roberts, the duo behind the wine importer bearing both names, run the bar and the floor with a small team. Cadet is a wine bar, a restaurant, a charcutier, and a shopfront; it feels French and it feels London; and, from the moment it opened, it has always felt just right. Must-try dish: Pate en croute." - Adam Coghlan
"Food is often described as art and, although it’s a cliché, there’s also a part of us that looks at the pâté-en-croûte from Cadet and thinks, ‘that would look great in a floating box frame in the hallway’. All of the charcuterie coming out of this Newington Green wine bar is superlative, but the pâté-en-croûte is our favourite of the lot. The combinations change, but the depth of flavour doesn’t. A slice of this meaty pie is simultaneously rugged and delicate. It’s a sort of edible terrazzo floor. Beautiful hints of green (pistachios), sweet warm oranges (apricots), embedded in a pastel pink (pork) base. It’s best paired with a glass or, rather, a bottle, and you best be prepared to reorder it, pronto." - daisy meager, jake missing, rianne shlebak, heidi lauth beasley
"Corridor-sized and full of cheese-grating cheekbones, Cadet is a Newington Green wine bar so European that the chippy two doors down feels out of place. The high chairs mean it’s not exactly a crowd-pleaser but for small plates aficionados, few do it better." - jake missing, heidi lauth beasley, sinead cranna
"Cadet is a matchbox-sized, oat-toned, chalk-and-board N16 wine bar that’s good in both the bottles and small plates departments. It’s where you go to drink pinot noir and lazily spread mousse de canard at 10pm on a Sunday night. But equally this Newington Green wine bar is popular with couples bedding in at the bar on a Friday night, and young families on a Sunday afternoon. Regardless of when you come, you'll more than likely be making a night out of Cadet on a regular basis." - heidi lauth beasley, rianne shlebak, sinead cranna
"Cadet is a matchbox-sized, oat-toned, chalk-and-board N16 wine bar that’s big on bottles and small on plates. It all sounds very familiar, doesn’t it? That’s because it is. But it’s still completely wonderful. This place is an example of everything working in tandem. Immaculate wines are poured, peerless, classic French charcuterie is served, and elegant small plates are lazily forked by candlelight." - heidi lauth beasley, jake missing, daisy meager, sinead cranna
