David P.
Yelp
My wife and I came here for a special occasion - we don't go out for such fine dining often! We made a reservation for 2 at 5:30pm on a Saturday (1000 points on OpenTable, too). Being 5:30pm, the restaurant was pretty quiet (a total of 3-4 tables occupied near the end of our meal).
Overall service was as you'd expect for such a restaurant: impeccable. Tables are cleared as soon as the plates are finished but they were never intrusive, silverware replaced every course, bread crumbs cleaned off, etc. They even folded our napkins if we left the table for any reason! Well, like I said, we don't enjoy such fine dining very often.
We chose the 7-course tasting menu. I had called ahead and arranged a vegetarian 7-course for my wife and a regular 7-course for myself (FYI, they are happy to do vegetarian versions of any number of courses, as long as everyone at the table has the same *number* of courses). We did not choose wine pairings, but the ginger lime soda was pretty good!
Food arrived quickly. First, several courses of amuse-bouche ("snacks" on the menu):
1. Beet chip + beef tartare/beet tartare, watermelon infused with elderflower, nori chip + chicken liver mousse/roasted eggplant mousse: excellent start, elderflower was very subtle but the watermelon had an interesting crispy/crunchy texture to it, both the tartare and the mousse were rich and creamy and were well complemented by their respective chips.
2. Oyster with savory/lovage, roasted zucchini: I'm not the biggest fan of oysters so I won't comment on it, but my wife liked the roasted zucchini.
3. Butter lettuce + halibut mousseline/porcini mousseline: so light, perfect crunch, no hint of grease at all, great balance.
Then a bread course accompanied by lard + hazelnut and butter + browned butter bits on top. The bread was very light, airy, and chewy at the same time (thought slightly greasy), the lard was wonderfully rich (but I felt overwhelmed the hazelnut), but the best part was the browned butter bits: so much caramelization, so much depth of flavor!
Third course: cucumber salad with lemon basil, mine had Dungeness crab. The crab was sweet and light, but I never expected the lemon basil to enhance the meatiness of the crab so much that for a second I did not think I was eating crab! Excellent pairing, though I felt that the vegetarian equivalent was a bit... lacking in imagination? Really, just cucumbers?
Fourth course: grilled squid in foamed jus of mussels/stuffed nettle leaf with rice, various grilled aliums. I thought the squid was getting a little rubbery, but the grilled aliums were delicious with the jus (and who knew that garlic flowers are so pretty?). My wife thought the stuffed nettle leaf was good - just good.
Fifth course: seared albacore/seared porcini, fermented garlic aioli, green bean/fava bean salad. The albacore was good, the aioli was great, but what blew me away was actually the salad: both beans were so young and tender and full of umami that it took me back to my childhood in China when I last had such flavorful beans (can't seem to find good ones here even in the farmer's market)! My wife thought the porcini was great, too - they actually managed to create a texture similar to the albacore with a seared outside and a tender inside, which I thought was quite neat.
Sixth course (not on menu): tomato and beets salad with lemon sage. For someone who doesn't like beets, this was unexpectedly delicious: they were stewed for so long that they were fork tender, sweet, earthy, and well complemented by some savory and juicy tomato that certainly did not come from some greenhouse in Florida.
Seventh course: grilled pork + fermented pork sausage + truffle aioli for me, grilled eggplant + grilled zucchini + scallion oil for her. First time having pork less than well done for me, it was good but not mind-blowing, overly lean and lacking in juice that had to be made up with the aioli. Pork sausage was Thai/Vietnamese-inspired - it was delicious. My wife thought the grilled eggplant/zucchini was quite good as well.
Eighth course: the desserts have arrived!
1. Almond custard and crumble, raspberry and lemon basil sorbet, fresh raspberries, anise: a variety of contrasting flavors, textures, and temperatures, very playful, refreshing, delicious.
2. Roasted meringue, potato ice cream, Sherry ice: meringue was well caramelized and delicious, though I did not quite understand the point of potato ice cream - I don't think I tasted anything! Interesting concept, not entirely sure it worked out.
(It was never explained why we got an extra course that was not on the 7-course menu, but on the chef's choice menu.)
Final thoughts:
Great ambience, fantastic service, great food. A few items were genuinely mind-blowing (e.g. lemon basil with Dungeness crab), most were very good, a few (e.g. potato ice cream) just OK. The vegetarian menu could have been more creative. Overall, it was a great experience.