Joi B.
Yelp
One of the OG vegan restaurants in NYC is back. Throughout most of my adult life, I'd hit up Candle Café on the UES (literally the only reason I'd willingly go to the UES) for progressive vegan food. And to Candle 79 for their lucullan cuisine and sophisticated surroundings on special occasions. My heart broke a little when I heard both of these venerable had closed.
But, as their website promises, "with a new flame, Candle is back!" The menu is a little more simple, but never basic. They are the originators of making things like a humble market plate into a work of culinary art screaming with unexpected flavor when one might expect plainness, and a kale salad that is velvety and umami-rich rather than tough, chewy and unbearable to consume.
The new Murray Hill location on third avenue is a sight to behold. Similar to the food, it's not flashy nor slick. I think of a throwback to the refined decor of the early aughts, before everyone was looking to outdo each other with their interior design. Classy without being boring. White exposed brick and natural wood accents, greenery peeking through here and there. The perfect place for lunch, however seeing as I stayed until almost dinnertime, it's practically glowing and cozy and lends itself to spirited dinners (speaking of spirits, until they get their license, you can BYOB).
I ordered something that I don't typically order in a vegan restaurant, a burrito bowl. As I mentioned above, it a deceptively modest offering. It's literally the best burrito bowl I've ever had with sensationally flavored black beans (normally I would salt the hell out of black beans but they miraculously needed no salt), bright greens, chewy short grain brown rice and all smothered in exquisite guacamole and a very realistic non dairy sour cream. You may add another protein and I didn't hesitate to choose the grilled seitan, recalling the magic Candle always commanded with the often bland and chewy wheat meat. No regrets.
My dining companion couldn't stop extolling the virtues of her mushroom crepe and it looked divine.
I needed to get some work done solo and asked our kind waiter if I might stay for a bit and he was so nice about allowing me to do so. I had no desire to ever leave, as I worked on my laptop with an oat milk cappuccino.
There are a lot of phenomenal vegan restaurants in Manhattan right now. Make sure you don't overlook Candle if you're looking for healthy, deliciously elevated comforting foods that you don't always see on menus these days.