Snuffles B.
Yelp
Hubby always says that US Michelin's just don't stand shoulder to shoulder with those in Europe, and I'm starting to agree. Our friends recommended this place when it had 1 star and they said it was the best 1-star they've ever been to and for us, this was the top 2 star we've ever been to. In our opinion, it bested almost every US 3 star (and some European 3-Stars and world top 50s) that we've been to.
This place has the most spectacular view of almost any restaurant you can go to. Good weather or bad (we were here on a dreary windy drizzly day), the view itself is worth the visit. It is strikingly similar to San Sebastian's Akelarre in vibe and decor. We got there right on time and we're first in at 12:30, so we got the best seat in the house with the only fully unobstructed window view in the main dining room. We overheard some grumbling by some neighboring frequent fliers about how we were at their table, but as proof of principle, the early bird definitely gets the worm.
The menu changes, but the key things are that you are going to get seafood and more seafood and don't expect (hardly) any land animals. (There was a paper-thin sliver of wagyu on a crayfish and that was it). However, shellfish allergy and vegans don't panic, this is one of the rare restaurants of its caliber with a fully VEGAN tasting menu. You should ask for it in advance, but the reason why we know it to be good is that hubby's annoying milk/cream allergy was perfectly accommodated by vegetarian substitutions and there were zero complaints or jealousy from that extreme meatatarian.
The 21 courses will stuff you and ALL of it was good. I honestly think that unless you eat like a bird, getting any of the smaller menus will leave you feeling unsatisfied. I admit there weren't any mind-blown show-stoppers that I will remember the taste of for life, but the consistency of the quality of every course is unmatched by few other tasting menus we've had - there were zero total duds. I would say that we would have happily eaten 2 more of 75% of the courses we were served if we could have. Also, the desserts CRUSHED it. All three were totally delicious and this is only the 2nd or 3rd tasting where the pastry chef didn't cop out and try to serve just a sorbet to avoid the dairy problem. We thought it was hilarious that I ended up getting a sorbet and he didn't (and it was a friggin amazing sorbet made from a tawny port).
I don't drink, but hubsters does, and I haven't seen him this happy with a wine pairing in a very very long time. Our Som Carlos was so engaging, knowledgeable, easy going, and made us feel comfortable. As soon as he and hubs started geeking out about booze, he stepped up the pairing and it just kept getting better and better. In terms of value, this was the best 100 Euro tasting you're gonna find. He opted for the smaller tasting option because it's freaking middle of the day and he was driving, but man it sure didn't feel like a smaller pairing.
210 Euro/pp (without wine or gratuity) may be a very high number in Portugal, but compared to places in the US of this caliber, this experience is a steal.
Finally, what sold us overall is that we don't have enough superlatives about the staff and service. We are not really into super stiff and formal service where you feel like you are being served, if you know what I mean. I don't need the fork to be exactly X number of inches from the end of the table. We prefer to feel like we are visiting their place and they are showing us a fabulous time. And a fabulous time they did show us. Don't get me wrong, the service was TIGHT, but with an ease that was most comparable to French Laundry and Gordon Ramsay - it just feels like they've been doing it forever and we're in their groove the whole time. Everyone from our server to the Som, to the maitre D, and even the Chef made us feel at home.
This place is a definite must visit if you are up near the Porto area, and we really do think they deserve a 3rd star - but maybe its better that they don't, because it's great just the way it is and why ruin it?