CHAR
Restaurant · Olde Kensington
310 Master St, Philadelphia, PA 19122
Highlights
Wood-fired pizzas with unique flavors & amazing crust
Wood-fired pizzas with unique flavors & amazing crust
"We could have made this guide based on slice shops alone, but sometimes you need six slices of a good thing. If you need a whole pie fix, head to Char in Kensington. The counter service spot simply makes the best pizza in the neighborhood, and this one is tangy with tomato sauce, garlic, oregano, and an olive oil drizzle. And since you’ll have some change to spare you can keep the indulgent mood going with an eight dollar blood orange soft serve." - candis mclean
"We get it. We’d all love break-ups to happen at home, close to a box of tissues and personal pint of ice cream. But then you’d have to deal with an awkward, lingering exit. At Char, the hard talk can be drowned out by the cafeteria-like chatter, or the chewing of a great vodka sauce-drenched slice. Because of the noise, it’s easy to be evasive when they reminisce about your first date or ask if they can still use your Netflix password. And since the tables are often full of people primed to get their hands on Kensington’s best pizza, you may be forced to nix the long, drawn-out production and take it all to-go, solo." - candis mclean
"Char is a spot where you could linger, but you’ll have to grab your own water when you do (for now, it’s strictly counter service). But when it comes to pizza, this massive shop already has the best in the neighborhood. It’s a one-man show—the owner tosses pepperoni and caramelized onion-loaded pies into the wood-fired oven, and adds the garlic bread crumb finishing touches on a kale caesar salad moments later. So expect a wait when it's crowded or when asking for an extra napkin or two. Six puffy-crusted pies are on the menu, and they’ll all make you fantasize about having a daily pizza party with a guest list of one." - candis mclean, alison kessler
"Great pizza does not a great restaurant make. While most of Kensington flocks to this casual one-man, one-oven shop for its deliciously bubbly Neopolitan-esque pies, the minimal, DIY atmosphere and inconsistent wait times makes it feel more like a cafeteria than a restaurant worth crossing town for. A lone paper plate serves as the sign on the door, the walls are bare, and the soundtrack is part rumblings of a SZA song and part staff shouting to find the person who ordered the hazelnut soft serve. photo credit: NICOLE GUGLIELMO photo credit: NICOLE GUGLIELMO photo credit: NICOLE GUGLIELMO photo credit: NICOLE GUGLIELMO Pause Unmute But if you treat it like a takeout only situation—and you should—you’ll be thrilled with the result. Place your order, and watch as the chef/owner tosses pepperoni and caramelized onion-loaded pies into the wood-fired oven, and adds the garlic bread crumb finishing touches on a kale caesar seconds later. The vodka-style pizza is a creamy, garlicky must-order, and the new school tomato pie is crispy, juicy, and surprisingly airy. So leave the dining-in to the roommates chugging hard seltzers or dates pouring from a box of wine. Char’s pizza tastes great even when it’s not eaten at Char. Food Rundown Kale Caesar Some restaurant salads taste like they came from a bagged kit from Acme, and others are the large, refreshing kind, topped with 24-month-aged parmesan and bread crumbs. This one is the latter. It’s not a necessity, but a solid choice if you want greens along with your pizza. Margherita When in doubt, go for a classic. Sure, you’ve seen a pizza with basil, marinara, tomatoes, mozzarella, and a fresh parm sprinkle at every shop with an Italian flag hanging in it. Why? Because it’s an excellent combination, as quintessential as double parking on South Broad. And this one is no exception. photo credit: Nicole Guglielmo New School Tomato Pie Unlike classic tomato pie (which they serve here, too), this one is layered with blistered Datterini tomatoes instead of marinara sauce. Along with the tomato twist, it's blanketed in an avalanche of fiore sardo cheese and breadcrumbs. The result is crispy, tangy, and bright. photo credit: NICOLE GUGLIELMO Fun Guy This combination of creamy roasted mushrooms, silky caramelized onions, and fresh chives makes us wish that one would appear just by saying “fun guy.” But as it turns out, we don’t have magical catch phrases, so we’ll just pick this one up instead. photo credit: NICOLE GUGLIELMO Vodka Creamy. Garlicky. Peppery. And rich. We’ve pretty much been reduced to blubbery wrecks after the first bite. Join the party and bring tissues. photo credit: NICOLE GUGLIELMO" - Candis R. McLean
"Kensington now has a new dazzling pizza spot that’s more than just style, but substance. After notable pop-ups at Tabachoy, Paffuto, El Chingon and Mish Mish, Gen-Z owner/chef Viraj Thomas transforms the space of the former Eeva into a pizzeria that’s serving original pies, savory bites, and soft-serve." - Ernest Owens
