Gary I.
Yelp
Chiguacle Sabor Ancestral de México has excellent Mexican cuisine that hews to a more native Mexican flavour profile, not so much Mexican American with its overuse of plastic orange cheddar or Monterey jack as well as not using native ingredients such as epazote, huitlacoche, achiote, chapulines, etc.
The restaurant is named after Chilhuacle (cheel wah cleh) which is an ancient & rare chile grown only in the Cañada Valley of Oaxaca, México supposedly with hints of cherry, anise, chocolate, tobacco. Shapes and colors also vary.
Sabor Ancestral/Ancestral flavours
1) Carnitas Michoacán:
The Carnitas are fried in its own fat and juices. Unlike Carnitas elsewhere which can be dry, tough, sinewy, excessively chewy, Carnitas Michoacán are moist, meaty, almost succulent, w/ a pleasant chaw.
It is porky, bit gamey which is countered by a slightly sweet acidic fruitiness from being marinated in orange juice as explained by the helpful waitress. Accompanied by finely puréed fresh, acidic Tomatillo & mild green chile Salsa.
The Frijoles Negros de Olla are whole black beans resting in its own thickened earthy juices. There is a faint, milky, lactose acid like sweetness. Small sprinkling of crumbled, well aged Cotija cheese which adds a great fermented, dairy funkiness.
The Arroz is special. Very al dente, colored a light green w/ a slight woody, grassy, green herbal aromatic similar to oregano. Perhaps Epazote?
Cooling, watery crisp, mixed salad w/ orange slices to refresh the palate between bites as well as adding healthful fibre, vitamins, phytochemicals.
Large, uneven, thick, rustic, creamy Tortillas that seem to be a corn & wheat combination where the texture is smoother than corn but a bit rougher than wheat.
Platos con Mole (moh leh)
2) Chile Relleno: Soft flour & egg fried coating around the green Pasilla chile stuffed w/ melted gooey, Mozzarella-like Queso Oaxaca. Crowning glory is your choice of Mole.
I chose Mole de Agave. The mole is fairly thick, lightly reddish, medium dark chocolate brown w/ an inviting sheen. There is a distinct fruity, fermented, earthy aroma of possibly Mezcal which is distilled from the smoky, roasted Agave (ah gah veh) succulent plant.
There is a strong smokiness similar to a chaparral brush fire scent. Sweet, piquancy from red chiles, and a complex of herbs & spices I couldn't suss out since they all blended together smoothly to create a new synergy of sensations to tease the papillae.
This is a very sophisticated Mole that reminds me of Mole Palenquero de Pechuga Real Minero by Chef Ivan Vásquez at Madre restaurant which makes a Mole out of the ripe fruits used to flavour the Mezcal while it is being distilled.
I suspect that La Diosa de los Moles, Chef Rocío Camacho would approve of the Moles produced by Chiguacle. In fact, the site here was formerly Chef Camacho's restaurant until there was a fire shutting it down permanently.
1-2a) Negra Modelo is touch acidic, refreshing, bitter dark lager beer enriched w/ slow roasted caramelized malt for a toasty, smooth hint of sweetness. It paired well with the Carnitas and especially the Mole de Agave.
3) The Flan is excellent. Lightly egg yolky, good bit of cream to smooth and enrich the creamy texture and richness. Great quality Mexican Vanilla from Veracruz initially hits the nose.
Delicate, not overly sweet so all the subtle flavours in the Flan are not covered up. The caramel sauce is equally not excessively sweet.
3a) Café de Olla is coffee brewed w/ cinnamon and sweetened. Unfortunately, it had a metallic after taste.
For me, Chiguacle Sabor Ancestral keeps good company with Babita Mexicuisine by Chef Roberto Berrelleza who pioneered La Haute Cuisine Mexicaine, Alta Cocina Chicano Cuisine by Taco María's Chef Carlos Salgado. All these restaurants in some way further high quality and the spirit of sophisticated Mexicanismo in their cooking styles. ¡Bravo!
4+ stars