CHILI
Sichuan restaurant · Midtown East ·
Authentic Sichuan fare with a vintage-inspired atmosphere
Authentic Sichuan fare with a vintage-inspired atmosphere
"A Midtown Sichuan restaurant that opened in 2021, this operation drew controversy after taking over the former space of an older Sichuan restaurant and recruiting some of its staff; that older restaurant accused the newer spot of being a copycat and of stealing employees and the design. One of the partners in a new Brooklyn outpost is the restaurant's executive chef, Peter He, who previously led the older Sichuan restaurant, linking the staffs and leadership between the two venues and fueling the four‑year dispute that followed the 2022 move." - Nadia Chaudhury
"There’s something vaguely comforting about this 20-year-old midtown favorite, thanks to its old school décor and Cantonese-heavy menu, which runs to standbys such as egg flower soup, sweet and sour chicken, moo shu pork, egg foo young, and honey walnut shrimp. However, the huge menu extends well beyond the usual suspects to include flounder in black bean sauce and crackly-skinned Peking duck, served with Chinese pancakes, green onion, and plum sauce." - Nikki Buchanan
"If its name doesn’t immediately give it away, the specialty at Chili is the spicy cuisine of Sichuan. Helmed by chef Peter Ho, the kitchen turns out specialties from the Southwestern Chinese province, many teeming with bright red chili peppers. With that in mind, signature drinks were created to tame the peppers’ heat. Cocktails such as the Life is a Peach, made with Cognac, vermouth, oolong tea, and peach syrup, act as a palate cleanser for fiery, numbing dishes like the Chungking spicy chicken or kung pao shrimp." - Patty Lee
"Successor to Cafe China in its old space two blocks east, Chili offers a similar menu of Sichuan favorites, but with some special twists. The mapo tofu uses the softest bean curd imaginable, but the load of peppercorns here is light, making it a good version for the tender tongued. Leeks provide a dominant flavor note." - Robert Sietsema
"The restaurant that reopened in Cafe China’s old space at 13 E. 37th Street keeps the same yellow awning and some similar (if kitchnier) décor, and while its food is distinguished it differs noticeably from Cafe China: the pork dumplings in chili oil were too thick-skinned, the tableside-tossed dan dan noodles were too thin and soft, and the mapo tofu was too soft and creamy though more subtly spiced and brightened by lots of leeks, dispelling the idea of a menu rip-off even as the original owners accused it of being a copycat. Two entrees stood out brilliantly: the tea-smoked duck arrived theatrically under a dome in a cloud of smoke and was charred and dramatic, and the cumin lamb was one of the city’s best, with large soft swatches of heavily peppered meat punctuated by thin Chinese celery. I left with my mouth burning but eager to keep both restaurants in my rotation for Sichuan cravings." - Robert Sietsema
