Randy S.
Yelp
Tokyo, Atago. November 2022
One of the finest, no, maybe THE finest example of Shojin Ryori in Tokyo. Perched on the second floor of Atago Green Hills Mori Tower with grounds adjacent to Soto Zen Seisho-ji, you might want to reconsider your big night out at WagyuMafia.
The entry is efficient. A staff member confirms your reservation and accompanies you in the elevator to the second floor. From there, a waitress in kimono escorts you to your private tatami room with a hori-kotatsu table looking out on a Japanese garden. The first thing that greets you is the incense.
An autumn meal started with chilled umeshu on ice in a copper tinged cup that highlights the color of the umeshu, accompanied by a warm oshibori.
The second course, to set the seasonality, a yakimono; hot miso dengaku nasu with Nagano kurakake mame and a cup of blanched mizuna in dashi. A fresh chilled oshibori.
The Owan, a chance for fourth generation owner-chef, Yusuke Nomura, to display his mastery of dashi; simmered slice of kaki on a sheet of yuba.
The lidded dish, Wanmono; tororo soba accompanied by minced takana, karashi mustard, fine ground aonori.
Shiizakana, Chef Nomura's display of autumn; Kyoto's huge and sweet Tamba Sasayama kuri w a fried green outer shell dotted w fried soba to resemble the outside of a chestnut, red yamamomo gobo, kuwai. Two mukago in a spoon (baby yamaimo). A trio of satoimo, enoki tempura, air dried konnyaku.
Nimono; renkon shinjo presented as dango in a barely viscous goma ankake of dashi and katakuriko scented with the freshness of hand ground sesame.
An Agemono of tempura with a stalk of puffed rice to complement the taste of fried food.
A couple of other dishes followed by Shokuji Gohan; rice zosui in dashi with nameko mushrooms and slivers of takenoko. A trio of ume paste, minced takana, and dried miso takuan.
After a platter of fruit, a final Mizumono; oshiruko with toasted puffy mochi. A cup of hojicha. A new warm oshibori.
On the way out Chef Nomura is waiting to thank you for your patronage and the person who greeted you at the entrance walks you through the garden and onto Seisho-ji's grounds and finally down a path to where you first arrived.