Bryant Z.
Yelp
I'll touch on the ambiance and service first as that's where they excelled.
The team behind Darvish is known for projects like Greenhouse and Lima/Lima Twist, and predictably the vibes here did a solid job of whisking me away to Iran, if only for a brief moment. There's a touch of flair that feels a little more kitsch-persian (the purple ambient lighting behind the bar for instance), but it works here.
The servers are knowledgeable in the food they're serving, and on one occasion where we asked a busser for some details about their olive spread, he went back to a manager to get the question answered. Small touch, but pretty neat to see someone making an effort to answer a question on their first day. Beyond this though, service was on point and Nuria deserves a special callout; I dropped a fork inadvertently, and they were quick to replace it. And that was on top of me already having requested replacement utensils after the watermelon/feta salad. The only thing that would've made service exceptional is if they'd swapped utensils and cleaned the table in between apps and main courses, but that's also more of a restaurant-level service decision than an individual one.
Onto the food.
They ran out of Koofteh at 5:30pm, but the restaurant opened at 5. Kinda surprised by this, but my best guess is that we just caught them before their next supply truck or they may have had a serious rush in the last few days.
Unlike the visual aesthetic, the smells and tastes are impacted by cost cutting that impact your nose and tongue pretty detrimentally if you're used to Persian food. Notably absent are:
1) saffron in their rice.
2) rice, at all.... there's like, a literal cup of rice. About 1/5 of what you'd get at cheaper Persian places (Moby's etc) and half of what you'd get at more upscale places like Joon. It wasn't enough for me to pair with the Kabob Torsh, which has never happened to me at any Persian restaurant in the past.
3) freshness in the bread. The table bread had an unpleasant chewiness to it that made it pretty difficult to power through. The spreads (what seemed like honey/butter and an olive spread) were fine though. It was really just the bread that felt like it was previously frozen. Might have been fresh, just didn't taste the part.
On the other hand, the starters and mains themselves had some highlights.
1) The watermelon feta salad worked surprisingly well. I'd never had it before (didn't even know it was a Persian thing. Don't hold that against me). It could benefit from a bit less feta or a slightly better presentation. But it worked well, and the actual watermelon itself was crisp and fresh.
2) the chicken kabob was moist. Not out of this world with seasoning/marinade, but it was pleasant to eat.
3) the kabob torsh was fine, a bit tangy for my taste but I was able to finish it despite running out of rice 2/3rds of the way through.
Sadly, they managed to overcook the kabob torsh, so it had a more chewy texture than I would've preferred. They use ribeye as their base cut, which is uncommon (Joon also does this, but most others like Queen of Persia in Toronto use tenderloin), but I think the fact that it was ribeye probably helped them out a bit when they overcooked it to well done -- I'd asked for medium.
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A lot of this is attributable to growing pains as a restaurant. In some ways Darvish is pretty solid at least compared to the place I consider to be the current DMV benchmark for Persian food -- Darvish's Kabob Torsh comes in at $32, for instance, which is on the more affordable side.
On the other hand, though, there were some low hanging fruit that could've been addressed pretty easily, like food temperature, the bread, and rice portions.
Overall, 3 stars for food, +1 for service.
4 stars.