Ulrik Øen Johnsen
Google
A Hidden Gem in Manhattan’s Coolest Food Court
There’s something deliciously smug about finding a great meal in a place that doesn’t try too hard. Tucked inside Olly Olly Market –Manhattan’s answer to the question “what if a food court grew up, got a better job, and started dressing well?” – you’ll find DDOBAR, quietly turning out food that deserves its own parade.
I visited with a dear South Korean friend, a man who knows his way around both a tasting menu and a street cart, and whose standards make Michelin judges look forgiving. We both left beaming — the rare kind of culinary happiness where you start planning your next visit before you’ve even paid the bill.
The scallop dish is where the kitchen makes its intentions clear: seared to the whisper of golden brown, barely cooked through, and still carrying the clean, briny sweetness of the ocean. It doesn’t come with a novel-sized explanation. It doesn’t need to.
Then came the shrimp on fried tofu, affectionately called “yubutart,” and here, DDOBAR truly shows its swagger. The tofu is crisp without, silken within. The shrimp sweet, juicy, and sauced with enough punch to wake you up but not so much as to drown the thing’s natural beauty. It’s clever without being show-offy – the culinary version of someone who’s extremely good-looking but also knows how to tell a joke.
Olly Olly Market itself buzzes with energy: a sleek, Manhattan-polished take on the classic food hall, where every stand feels like a secret you’re lucky to have overheard. It’s the kind of place where you realize why New York ruins other cities for you.
If you’re smart, you’ll find your way to DDOBAR. If you’re lucky, you’ll bring a friend who gets it. Either way, expect to leave feeling slightly smug — and already plotting a return.