Austin B.
Yelp
tl;dr Staten Island-style (ultra thin-crust) pies highlight a menu of Italian classics at this sophisticated pizzeria
Denino's originally opened as a Staten Island tavern in 1937, and, since introducing ultra thin-crust pizzas to the menu, it has become a fixture of the NYC pizza scene. The Staten Island-style Clam pie was voted best in NYC, and, more recently, Denino's opened a second location in Greenwich Village.
This outpost sports a fresh take on a classic red-sauce joint. Ornate, wrought-iron railings separate the mezzanine seating from the long, dark bar in the back. Exposed brick walls to the left lay bare, while sepia walls to the right are lined modestly with framed black-and-white photographs. The space is warmly lit by dropdown incandescent chandeliers, and the windows open up to the sidewalk for prime people-watching. Dark wooden tables and chairs match the hardwood floors, and the EDM playlist starkly congrats the otherwise retro vibe.
My partner and I arrived at opening for weekend lunch, and we were the first guests there. We opted to split a pie: 1/2 Clam and 1/2 Vodka. The crust lived up to its reputation, super thin and crisp all the way to the edges. The clam slices were generously sprinkled with slices of clam, then drizzled with olive oil. Combined with the blistered cheese along the surface, they were excitingly rich and brine-y, although they became progressively fishier as they cooled. Meanwhile, the Vodka slices were topped with a moderately thick layer of mild sauce in between dollops of cheese. The sauce sported a solid flavor but I didn't think it was either strong or spicy enough. Even though the pie measured 16" in diameter, the thin crust kept it surprisingly light, and I was still peckish after 4+ slices.
Service was friendly, if not somewhat slow (despite there being so few other patrons). At nearly $40 (after tax and tip) for the pizza alone, you can quickly rack up a bill at Denino's. Nonetheless, I was very impressed by the crust, as well as the opportunity to mix-and-match red and white varieties on our single pie. Even in a neighborhood already full of great slice shops and full-service pizzerias, Denino's remains a welcome addition to the Greenwich Village pizza collection.