Fried, broiled & steamed seafood served from a cozy, unassuming counter-serve spot.
"Located in Harlem’s historic Sugar Hill, Devin’s is a small shop with a big kitchen and an aisle where customers order and then stand and eat their fish and chips along a dining shelf. It was founded in 2001 and suffered a catastrophic fire in 2014, after which it took three years to reopen. When it did, if offered sides of steamed vegetables as well as french fries with its fried fish in a nod to health concerns among its customers: Now green beans, butternut squash, and corn on the cob are popular choices. Though several varieties of fish are available at an array of prices — all inexpensive — whiting is the fish usually served with the fish and chips ($9.50), which consists of four filets with an abundant serving of fries. Whiting is a relatively small fish, and the filets are served skin-on, sometimes with tail attached, which makes for a firmer chew than skinless filets. The chips themselves were browner than usual, and benefited from extra cooking. All three places make an exemplary version of fish and chips, so it depends on the coating and fish species you prefer. Nevertheless, Devin’s makes the more interesting version — having the skin not only holds the filets together, it also adds flavor and texture to the dish. Also, the breading is of less importance at Devin’s, a mere supporting player in a tour-de-force of a dish that I return to eat again and again." - Robert Sietsema
"Devin’s Fish & Chips was already a decade old when it caught fire in 2014, and freaked everyone out by not reopening for three years. When it finally did, it was better than ever, offering one of Sugar Hill’s best whiting sandwiches, with all sorts of other seafood options. Whole porgies are equally as good, and you may go with the excellent skin-on fries as a side, or choose one or more of the perfectly steamed vegetables. Also on the menu: shrimp, scallops, and flounder, fried or steamed. The refurbished premises offers plenty of seating." - Eater Staff
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