J R.
Yelp
I am not a member of the Doberman Drawing Room, nor, not having a spare $3000 per year to throw away, will I ever be. But the lounge, which opened officially on 30 April 2025, does take reservations from the unmonied masses via SevenRooms. Presumably so the members have the opportunity to witness the difference in service experienced, as touted by founder Ryan Doherty ("If a member sits down next to a non-member, you'll definitely see more of a fuss made over the member," says Doherty -interview with Eater posted 19 February 2025 by Janna Karel). All this to admit, I was not predisposed in Doberman's favor when I decided to try out the place.
The sign above the paw-shaped bell said Ring bell for entry; however, the solid wood door was cracked open. I split the difference, and pressed the bell then opened the door myself to enter.
The young lady in the vestibule gave a very warm greeting, checked my reservation, advised me of the house rules e.g. no photos or videos, and escorted me to a bar seat. Will the bartender explained the menu structure (with one tiny detail omitted; more on that later), and a complimentary lychee "like" martini shot. I had to ask Will what made the shot not a true lychee martini and he reported that the drink was just pre-made rather than fresh as needed. OK. Shot was quite sweet; did not finish, but the thought was nice.
Caninha ($20): Was informed that the "herbs & spices" part was Drambuie. Very coconut forward, not much contrast. Lime quadrants shed pieces which made sipping not a smooth experience.
Tom Kha Fizz ($20): Wonderful garden tomato scent, with a good bite to the back of the throat at the start then settled into a more balanced spiced creaminess. Not entirely sure to what the "Fizz" referred, but I preferred this cocktail over the Caninha.
Both cocktails: Decent volume in their respective glasses (heavy rocks one for the Caninha, highball for the Fizz).
Service: Unpretentious and professional from everyone. Quite nice from Will; at some point I apparently was passed on to Eric(sp? the gent of the curled moustaches), who was also friendly.
Atmosphere: Interesting if a bit forced. Hunting box crossed with TGIFs, with a little Haunted Mansion. Dark wood beams, red velvet booths, drapery and embroidery, a tree loomed beneath a skylight, a piano hunched in an alcove beneath an altar-like wood carving, and (hopefully fake/ethically sourced) animal heads hung on the walls, along with random items like an antique bicycle. Cabinets stuffed with weirdness, and portraits got a bit of a Dali treatment, so portions were melted, stretched, or jagged. Music was low and somewhat hypnotic.
Value: Ah, here we go. Cocktail prices were...ambitious, for the quality, and location. But what really pushed the Doberman into audacious territory was the 22% auto-gratuity added to the check. Which was not offically mentioned (before/as of the time of this review)
in the menu, online or physical
in the Doberman's online FAQ
by any bartender.
Now, I will state that I WAS aware of this addition, thanks to prior reviews. Still, I was not very pleased when a (shall remain nameless) bartender, upon seeing my expression, said the auto-grat was listed as a separate line item to "avoid surprises".
So, yeah. Audacious.