Matteo R.
Yelp
It's been a while since last time I paid visit to this Sardinian[1] wine bar. I remember I liked this place, and I have to say I found it to be even better than before. My family is originally from Sardinia (one of the poorest regions of Italy), so trust me here: I know what I'm talking about.
The decor is rustic and very simple: dark, wooden floors, thick wooden tables, exposed bricks, and a lot of white (the warm Mediterranean white that you fin in Southern Spain, Greece, Sicily, etc...). A few authentic Sardinian touches here and there, like small rugs with stylized animal figures, wicker baskets, wooden masks.
My gf and I came here on a Friday night; I was pleasantly surprise to find it not overcrowded at all: we chose to be seated in the large room at the back, which had about 2/3 of the tables empty. I also liked the jazz music they were playing in the background (Chet Baker and Miles Davis).
The menu[2], much like the decor, is simple and rustic. Don't expect a full restaurant dinner here: this is a wine bar, and the menu is designed to accompany and enhance your wine experience. The wine menu, which includes only Italian wines[3], is very impressive. Plenty of choices from Sardinia, of course, Cannonau in primis, but not only: this may be the only place in the city where you can find Carignano del Sulcis. If you prefer white, I would recommend a Vermentino: a dry and aromatic wine that goes great with fish, but holds its ground perfectly well with cheese and cold cuts. If you opt for the house wine, it comes in different sizes: our "small" contained the equivalent of four full glasses. At just $13 this is something you may want to consider if a full bottle is too much, or if you are planning to keep drinking elsewhere after dinner.
There is a wide selection of cheeses and cold cuts. Personally, I would have liked to see a bit more typical Sardinian cold cuts, like wild boar salami. The menu also offers crostoni, includin one with "bottarga di muggine": a typical Sardinian delicacy made of sun dried grey mullet roe that you grate over pasta or salad[4].
For starters, we shared the pane carasau guttiau ($5). Pane carasau[5] is a very thin, flat, and crisp bread from Sardinia. In this case, it was sprinkled with olive oil, salt, and rosemary. We then shared the special salad with beets, soft goat cheese, and apple. I then had the pistokku bresaola ($13; bresaola arugola, pesto, goat cheese mozzarella): the ingredients are layered over a sheet of pane carasau, and melted in the oven. I really liked the simplicity of this dish: no need to be fancy when the ingredients are delicious. I also liked the different textures that make this rustic dish: the crisp pane carasau, the soft bresaola, and the melted cheese. VH had the malloreddus (a short, ridged Sardinian pasta) with salsiccia in tomato sauce. This very simple dish and delicious was the only pasta dish on the menu.
We had enough room for dessert. The menu offered home made tiramisu', chocolate salami, and two specials. we opted for the chestnut mousse, which came sprinkled with hazelnuts and served in a delicate philo pastry. I loved both the soft and firm consistency of the mousse, which packed flavor without too much sweetness.
Our server, Dave, was very good: attentive but totally unintrusive (don't you hate when a waiter keeps coming to the table every 5 minutes to ask how everything is?), and very knowledgeable about the menu.
$41 each including tip.
This place is good for a date. The atmosphere is simple, warm, very welcoming, and romantic. The small plates will encourage you to share, which is always sexy. Unless your date into ultra-sophisticated, fancy dishes in very formal dinner settings. But if these are the kind of people you're going out with, you're probably not reading my reviews anyway. Good for groups too, thanks to a couple of communal tables.
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[1] The only other Sardinian place I know in the city is Cannonau (formerly known as Assenzio) in the East Village http://www.yelp.com/biz/cannonau-new-york-2
[2] The menu is hand-written on brown paper, including the very extensive wine menu.
[3] Wines from Southern Italy are very under-appreciated, which also means that they are a great value: Cannonau (try Nepente di Oliena, if you can find it) and Vermentino from Sardinia, Primitivo and Salice from Salento in Puglia, and Nero d'Avola from Sicily.
[4] I like bottarga very much; it can transform a good artichoke salad in something pretty unique.
[5] You can find pane carasau at Fratelli Iavarone in New Hyde Park: http://www.yelp.com/biz/fratelli-iavarone-new-hyde-park
