Ken S.
Yelp
KenScale: 8.25/10
Visits: January 2025
Some of the most rewarding restaurant visits throughout our culinary journey together have been when my wife Jun and I stumbling upon a place that had flown under the radar while still offering compelling dining experience and where we got to know the chef and the staff over time and get more perspectives on the restaurant's identity and core philosophy. It was sometime in the fall last year that I learned about a new project in Fairfax by chef Jon Krinn (who cooked previously at the Clarity restaurant in Vienna) that was operating on an "invitation only" basis until opening up the space to the public. We had not dined at Clarity before, so I was intrigued by the proposition at Elyse (named after chef Jon's daughter's middle name), a five-course tasting menu at a relatively reasonable $130 per person. After running some errands in Virginia on a recent Saturday, we drove over to the restaurant in a relatively obscure part of Fairfax (next to an Italian restaurant Dolce Vita). Jun confessed to me she had no prior expectations whatsoever before we stepped into the restaurant; after the meal, she happily concluded that Elyse is a restaurant worth visiting again and again.
The moment I realized that Elyse is not an ordinary restaurant was when we were met with almond macaron to start our meal. What are the odds you see a sweet macaron for your opening bite at a restaurant? Well, you put cured trout, caviar and cauliflower puree inside the macaron, and you have one really delicious bite of sweet and savory to raise expectations for the rest of the meal. For the second course, Jun and I shared the two options available on the menu. Of the two, what really impressed Jun was a refreshing ceviche of razor clam, sea squirt and sea cucumber. It is really rare to see sea squirt and sea cucumber at a restaurant in America, and they could backfire unless cooked properly due to their funky ocean flavor. Knowing that Jun is rather sensitive to these types of ingredients, it was a relief to see her greatly enjoy the ceviche and heaped praise on the dish to chef Jon. Chef Jon prepared the pasta himself, and it turned into a wonderfully earthy plate with chestnut and mushroom-based sauce. We were offered a supplement of foie gras following the pasta, and were very glad to have taken up on it. The texture of the foie gras was very memorable, and the ingenious use of star fruit, dragon fruit and passion fruit only enhanced it. We also chose each dish from the fourth, final savory course. Jun was very complimentary of how well the venison was cooked, and the unexpected use of dried persimmon and chayote puree to complement the meat was also quite smart. I, on the other hand, really liked the wild skate swing with spot-on texture of the fish that tasted even better with the use of saffron and sea urchin vinaigrette. For the two desserts we shared, we were slightly more in favor of the pear dessert with red wine-based sauce and white chocolate; I particularly liked how the kitchen decided to use dehydrated shiitake mushrooms to give chewy texture in between the pears.
Getting a reservation at 30-seat Elyse isn't difficult at the moment but if you are looking to dine at the chef's counter (which is really the spot to enjoy your experience at the restaurant while interacting with chef Jon and his staff working their magic at a small kitchen), you might want to plan in advance. We both loved many personal touches of the restaurant, starting with its cozy dining room that makes you feel like you are dining in a secret supper club, to chef Jon's personal email before our visit with a sneak peek at the menu as well as directions and other tidbits. As we were seated at the counter closest to the kitchen, we had a chance to chat extensively with chef Jon throughout the meal. He was a very friendly and approachable person (which is arguably hard to find in a lot of star chefs these days) who shared his motivation behind opening this relatively modest operation with his wife Antonia Le and a small staff he brought from his prior spots. We saw in him a talented and humble chef who wants to continuously iterate and improve upon his craft to deliver world-class dining experience to diners he cares about (he even embraced Jun's suggestion to consider using pine nut in lieu of chestnut for the pasta). Could the dining experience at Elyse be improved? The portion was somewhat on the smaller side even for main courses, and I do think the wine list could be improved to add more options. Overall, however, our experience at Elyse was quite good and we were very encouraged to hear that chef Jon is aiming to change his menu at least monthly. Elyse is one of the better restaurant discoveries we had made in recent years, and we can't wait to go back to the restaurant again later this year. Overall, however, Elyse is one of the better discoveries we had made in recent years, and we can't wait to go back again.