Esse Taco
Taco restaurant · Williamsburg
219 Bedford Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11211
Highlights
Ribeye, pork, mushroom, chicken tacos; corn husk sundae
Ribeye, pork, mushroom, chicken tacos; corn husk sundae
"At this pedigreed taco shop from the chef behind Mexico City’s most famous restaurant, the tacos come on super fragrant, chewy corn tortillas. And they’re stacked with some good meats—thinly shaved rib eye, or our favorite, the fatty pork adobada. This place is a fun hang too, with big French doors, and music blasting onto Bedford Ave. But our very favorite thing about it is their corn husk ice cream sundae, so save space for dessert." - neha talreja, kenny yang, carina finn koeppicus, willa moore, will hartman
"We’re going to tell it to you straight: These tacos are a bit overhyped, backed by celebrity chef Enrique Olvera (of Pujol and Cosme fame). But as far as tacos go in New York, these are still very good. Esse Taco offers a handful of tacos, including pork, chicken, mushrooms, and one in particular in the gaonera style, named for a thin-sliced cut of marinated beef. This style garnered a Michelin star for Mexico City’s tiny Taquería El Califa de León, the first-ever taqueria to receive one. Esse also nixtamalizes corn for “really superb tortillas.”" - Robert Sietsema
"I noted that the version at Esse Taco was described as serving tacos as a slab rather than shaven, and that Esse Taco has received mixed reviews." - Emma Orlow
"At this pedigreed taco shop from the chef behind Mexico City’s most famous restaurant, the tacos aren’t the star of the show. In fact, the best thing you can do at Esse Taco in Williamsburg is get dessert. The corn husk ice cream sundae, a transfer student from Cosme, is excellent—a perfect summer treat. This place is also a fun summer hang, with big French doors, music blasting onto Bedford Ave., and silver-painted oil drums that serve as a resting place for plates, napkin holders, and excellent agua frescas. photo credit: Will Hartman photo credit: Natalie Black photo credit: Will Hartman Pause Unmute The thinly shaved rib eye and fatty pork adobada tacos aren’t worth planning a day around, but they will still hit the spot if you’re in the area. The proteins come on made-to-order corn tortillas, which smell like a walk through a cornfield, and—for the location—there’s pretty good value to be found. No single taco costs more than $6, and you can get “todos los tacos” for $20. For a dollar more per taco, you can “make them gringa,” changing out the corn tortillas for flour ones, with melted chihuahua cheese for some variety. Top them (cautiously) with some very spicy salsa from a washbasin-sized molcajete. Food Rundown Corn Husk Sundae If Esse Taco were just an ice cream shop, this corn husk sundae would make it one of our top spots for frozen desserts. Creamy, subtle with corn flavor, and made complete by a nice meringue crunch, this has “little treat” written all over it. photo credit: Will Hartman Agua Fresca The pineapple agua fresca is a wonderful beverage. Not too sweet but juicy, and with a subtle hint of cinnamon, this is a must-order with any purchase. photo credit: Will Hartman Pork Adobada A crispy, fatty pork adobada served with a rich and bright pineapple butter. The meat is charred, bite-sized, dripping with orange pig fat, and it’s our favorite taco on the menu. photo credit: Will Hartman Chicken Puc Choc The chicken taco by itself is fine, but benefits from gringa-zation. Most things are better with melted cheese, but this chicken’s punchy marinade especially needs some fat. Add some of their very hot salsa to this. The chicken is also cut into planks here, but the piece of meat is smaller and leads to less tortilla danger. Ribeye Steak This rib eye taco uses beef that’s cut like beef for a cheesesteak. Shaved very thin and served with an orange salsa guacachile, it pairs well with Esse's corn tortilla. Oyster Mushroom Smoked over mesquite, and served with a smoky and sweet salsa tatemada, this is a vegetarian taco worth ordering even if you have no dietary preferences. If you eat cheese, this one works well as a gringa. photo credit: Will Hartman" - Will Hartman
"I visited Esse Taco in early May in Williamsburg (219 Bedford Avenue on the corner of North Fifth Street), a project from Mexico City chef Enrique Olvera of Cosme and Atla that leans innovative. They nixtamalize their corn for really superb tortillas and offer a handful of tacos — pork, chicken, mushrooms, and one in the gaonera style (the thin‑sliced cut of marinated beef). The signature rib-eye ($5.95) is a razor‑thin portion seared on the flattop for concentrated beefy flavor, lightly coated with habanero salsa and heaped with chopped onions, cilantro, and scallions; it’s a compelling addition to the city’s taco roster though the meat reads a bit dry. The smoked mushrooms are woodsy and slippery, packing loads of flavor and complemented by black beans, chopped scallions and onions, and smoked salsa — the second best of the Esse tacos and one of the city’s best vegetarian tacos. The pork loin, dressed with pineapple butter (the same combination Olvera uses at Pujol), is rich and refined with a slight sweetness but less dramatic than al pastor, and the chicken, marinated in orange citrus in the Yucatán style and dressed with pickled purple onions, benefits from the marinade though the pickled onions tend to overpower the taco." - Robert Sietsema
