Federal Pizza

"Housed in a restored, ‘50s-era bank building designed by local architect Al Beadle, Federal stays noisy and crowded most of the time. The credit for that probably goes to its thin-crust pizzas, 10 in all, baked in a gas-assisted, wood-fired oven. The dough, created by master baker M.J. Coe, is augmented with fermented rye, which lends earthy, tangy intensity. Although straightforward pizzas such as pepperoni and margherita are available, most people love the oddball, California-influenced pies, topped with herbs, veggies and goat cheese. Consider the sweet potato (sweet potato, ricotta, sage, and chives) or the At Last (broccolini, roasted corn, goat cheese, Calabrian chiles, basil, and lemon oil). Newer to the menu, Detroit-style pan pizzas (eight square slices) offered in three iterations." - Nikki Buchanan, Chris Malloy