Jacqueline Hanna
Google
In soft light and an intimate setting -- the very space once home to his first restaurant, Angelo Chef Ivan Jacobo unveils Flour & Thyme, a confident evolution of his culinary voice.
The menu begins with sparks of brightness: oysters layered with citrus, chili heat, and a pop of roe. Foie gras torchon follows in decadent contrast, its silkiness lifted by pomegranate's tart burst and the crunch of toasted nuts.
But the dish that stole my heart? The tortellini in brodo -- delicate hand-folded pasta stuffed with mortadella, pork butt, and pecorino, floating in a deeply savory beef broth. A bowl that feels both rustic and elevated, comforting yet complex.
Then there's the lasagna - a towering slice, crisp on all sides, layered with house bolognese, marinara, and crowned with 24-month aged pecorino. It's comfort food sharpened with precision and patience.
The cocktails mirror the menu's ambition. Love Note is brooding and layered, marrying foie gras-washed scotch, very old St. Nick harvest rye, calvados, Benedictine, port, and bitters -- a drink to savor slowly.
Fire & Passion offers its playful counterpoint, smoky and bright with ponche, mezcal, lemon, fire bitters, and a Cabernet float.
Flour & Thyme feels like a return, but also a reinvention -- a love letter to craft, comfort, and the kind of flavors that stay with you long after the last bite. I'm looking forward to my next visit.