Shawn H.
Yelp
This lived up to the hype for us. We came here and experienced a full four-hour lunch, and while I can't say it actually exceeded the hype, I feel like the only way it would have exceeded it is if it made me never want to eat anything else ever again. (I will say, it was definitely hard to appreciate what would normally have been a great dinner in Florence that night, though.)
It is definitely an experience that goes beyond the food -- everything is as perfectly executed as you'd probably imagine, and if you appreciate artistry in cooking, you will definitely get an extra kick out of this meal. (I'm pretty neutral on that end.)
The food itself was incredible -- they made us a custom tasting menu, working mostly off of the Tutto menu, and mixing in some items from the Festina Lente, along with a couple of the a la carte dishes that we had our eyes on. As others have said, not every dish hits the spot perfectly, but you should expect that given the wide variety within each tasting menu, and knowing how experimental Massimo is with his food. I've heard people talk about chefs "challenging" their customers and always thought that was a really stupid saying, but I understand it a little bit more now -- there were dishes put in front of us here that were very unusual and that I didn't think I'd like, with ingredients that would typically put me off, and for the most part, they were unbelievable. (I felt like this with the desserts in particular -- I didn't think I was going to love the tiramizucca, the apple, or the popcorn, and I couldn't have been more wrong on all three. They were incredible.)
As far as our favorite dishes, my wife and I actually had different standouts, which maybe helps explain Osteria Francescana in a nutshell -- there is just so much variety, I can't imagine two people ever come out with a true consensus on their meals.
Anyway, my favorites (in very rough order) were:
- Five ages of Parmigiano Reggiano (worth the build up -- it was incredible)
- Tortellini with cream of Parmigiano Reggiano (the cheese in this and the five ages was so unbelievable, it has made me somehow love parmigiano reggiano even more than before -- plus the tortellini were just perfect)
- Oops! I dropped the lemon tart (so incredibly lemony and amazing)
- Tagliatelle with hand cut meat ragu (if you like a super-flavorful ragu, this isn't it -- it's just a perfectly crafted sauce and even more perfectly crafted and cooked pasta)
And my wife's (even more roughly ranked):
- Traditional Modenese miniature tortellini in capon broth (she loves this dish in general, and this was the best that probably exists anywhere)
- Five ages of Parmigiano Reggiano
- Mediterranean sole (the tomato at the bottom was a nice surprise)
- Green over brown over black (amazing risotto in three flavors)
- Insalata di mare (unexpected flavor explosion)
We were extremely full at the end. I probably attacked the bread and olive oil more than I should have, but it was just so good. (The first one they brought out in particular, which was more traditional -- the second was a ciabatta-like bread that was good but not quite as other-worldly.)
The only thing I'm fairly certain I would do differently next time is limit the foie gras -- we're not crazy about it, and we had it in three different dishes. (I'm pretty sure we both have only actually eaten it in incredibly fancy restaurants, and only as part of tasting menus. If we're not crazy about it these places, where would we be?) The fois gras, miso, and mushrooms dish would be a good one to swap out, as would the croccantino (which is a "fois gras ice cream bar") at the end. The "apple" had it too, but that was still incredible. To their credit, they did ask us at the beginning if there are things we don't eat, and we said no, so that's on us.
I also would probably try to avoid the 'sometimes mallard, sometimes partridge, and even bollito,' which we weren't crazy about.
(For what it's worth, I have no idea if the level of customization they did for our menu is normal, so maybe I shouldn't take it for granted that they'd not only do something similar next time, but actually allow us to be even more flexible. I'd definitely try though...)
As for whether it was the best meal of our lives, which is almost the automatic question after you go here -- if it's not the best, it is on an incredibly short list. Gun to my head, I think I'd have it #1, and regardless, it was an amazing experience and absolutely worth the price (as much as any meal can be worth that price).
One other thing we'd like to experience the next time around: meeting Massimo. He was out of town, which I'm guessing is the norm now that he's an international celebrity, but based on other reviews, it seems like he's there enough that you always have a decent shot. They did give us some of his balsamic vinegar as a parting gift (and we obviously got to experience his incredible food), so that'll have to do for now.