Marshall J.
Yelp
High on a hill east of the center of the city sits what was once the grandest house in Austin. It's the oldest frame structure in town, and it's reputed to be the only building ever constructed by a foreign government on Texas soil.
For $5 a person, French Legation Museum representative Jim Schmidt showed us the grounds and told us the story of the place. Jim knows his stuff and answered all our questions. We happened to be there during The Alliance Française d'Austin's twice-monthly pétanque games (pétanque is similar to bocce), which looked like a lot of fun.
The house was built by France's liaison to the Republic of Texas, the colorful and eccentric Jean Pierre Isidore Dubois. More at home in the culture and luxury of Parisian high society than in the Wild West, Dubois hated Texas and spent as much time in New Orleans as he could. The animosity seems to have been mutual, and the rugged residents of Austin were happy when Dubois left the city for good in 1841.
In addition to debts and ruffled feathers, Dubois left behind his newly-completed "mansion" (or so the house must have seemed when compared to the shacks and temporary log structures that made up the city at the time).
By the time Texas became a U.S. state, the house belonged to Dr. Joseph Robertson, who raised 11 children there. The Robertson family sold the house and property to the state in 1949. The French Legation was placed under the guardianship of the Daughters of The Republic of Texas, who restored the structure in the 1950s.
The house, constructed of loblolly pine carted from Bastrop, is an example of French Creole/Greek revival architecture. As if built on a Louisiana bayou, it is raised two feet off the ground. Another unusual feature (for Texas, anyway) is the basement, intended to serve as Dubois's wine cellar.
In one of the bedrooms hangs an 1858 painting (by 12-year-old Julia Robertson) which depicts the home and grounds as they appeared at the time. The most interesting thing about it, to me, is the background. One can see acres and acres of rolling, open country where the buildings and streets of East Austin now lie.
The reconstructed freestanding kitchen (separate kitchen structures were common, as they minimized the risk of fire to the main house) showcases an impressive collection of mid-19th Century French cookware and kitchen furnishings. The reconstructed carriage house contains the office, gift shop and an upstairs banquet room.
The French Legation Museum is a step back into the early days of Austin's history, and a visit there is an afternoon well spent.
(For more on Dubois and his dubious reputation in Austin, visit http://www.texfiles.com/eckhardt/laffairedhog.htm)