Susan K.
Yelp
ORIGIN:
Gracie's Luncheonette started off as a food truck and in 2016 expanded to a rooted location thanks to the acquisition and renovation of a once popular German-American diner (Koch's). Gracie's is led by two graduates of nearby Culinary Institute of America -- Allyson Merritt and Andrew Spielberg.
CONCEPT:
Given their background, it is not surprising to find Gracie's to be an elevated American diner experience, where condiments, beverages, and baked goods are made in house, and many ingredients are super fresh and locally sourced.
LOCATION:
Adding to the experience, Gracie's is off a country road in rural Leeds (population 377), and perched high above a creek. Despite this rural setting, Gracie's is a short swing off of interstate 87.
AMBIANCE:
A renovated neon sign draws passing travelers and residents to the diner. Inside, white walls display artwork, but the real attention grabber is what can be seen from the large south-facing windows. Here guests can get a picturesque scene worthy of depiction by one of the 19th century Hudson River School painters who once lived and worked in the region.
SERVICE:
With two car-stopping features, Gracie's is a popular destination. However, like many restaurants Gracie's has struggled with recruiting and retaining kitchen and service workers -- especially challenging in a rural town. A sign at the entrance (and their web site) called for applicants. During our visit, fifteen minutes after their 10 o'clock opening on a holiday Monday morning, there were only two servers, one of whom was also managing the growing number of customers waiting to be seated. As a result it took 40 minutes to receive our order. At that point, the interior of beef was tepid and not juicy, suggesting the dishes had been waiting for pick up for some time.
FOOD:
Thankfully it was possible to curb hunger with Gracie's donuts, which can be purchased separately at a counter dedicated to take out. These donuts were tall and yeasty, with significant flavor provided by the unique icings. I especially liked the lemon poppy seed and brown butter hazelnut donuts.
Eager to compare a brunch dish I recently enjoyed at Norwalk's Tap Root, I ordered the brisket hash. My husband ventured to try country fried steak and eggs, something neither of us had experienced before.
The brisket was cut into small rectangles and mixed with a similarly sliced preparation of potatoes, peppers, and onions, with two eggs crowning the dish. It was good, but not as flavorful nor generously proportioned as what I had experienced at Tap Root, perhaps it could be described as a dainty iteration. My husband's steak was a bit dry and chewy, but we both enjoyed trying the house-made biscuit that accompanied it. Strangely the sausage gravy that traditionally envelopes the dish was reportedly not available that morning, but the dish was offered nonetheless.
To my surprise, my husband had scouted out information about the restaurant and knew to look out for house-made condiments. As a result he noticed that catsup was among the items not on our table and requested a taste. The catsup had a fresh, vinegary flavor.
I look forward to experiencing Gracie's again and will look to arrive during a non-holiday weekday. Although our experience was not ideal, there were many indicators that suggest it was due to being understaffed during our visit.
TIPS:
Gracie's is closed on Tuesdays. Open through 3 PM other days, with extended hours on Fridays and Saturdays (closes at 7 PM).
Local beer and cider are available, as are wine and cocktails. I look forward to trying the Orange Creamsicle on a summer evening.
Breakfast items are available all day.