Christina S.
Yelp
Yes, I was one of the many people ~influenced~ by others on social media to give Grand Amari a visit. So was my dad who, in an attempt to divert from his usual suburban food spots, made reservations for an early Father's Day dinner. I swear, every single "foodie" in Portland has sung this place's praises since its grand opening, so naturally I had very high expectations going in. And once again I found myself at the end of the meal wishing I could give half star reviews, because I cannot decide if this place deserves 3 or 4 stars. But, I forgo my usual niceness and round down this time.
The highlights: Grand Amari is housed within the Grand Stark Hotel, which I find has one of the most aesthetically-pleasing lobbies in Portland. The same level of decor carries over into the restaurant; the interior is quite lovely. Our server (Miles? Hi, Miles) deserves a raise. I have to commend when a server can balance attentiveness and knowing when to leave a table in peace. The wine list is impressive, as well as their amari menu. You know its good when an Italian (aka my father's friend who joined us) gives a little nod of approval. And now, for the dishes that made me give a little nod - first, the cacio e pepe candele looks kind of like Jamie Lee Curtis' noodle hands in Everything Everywhere All at Once, but it made for a delightful and decadent pasta plate. The grilled branzino arrives whole, so you'll need to de-bone the thing yourself in order to enjoy this fish, and it is worth it. And my mother's aperol bombe, a sort of miniature baked alcoholic Alaska, was a wonderful combination of temperatures, textures, and flavors. I also longingly watched their amari cart roll by, en route to someone who could indulge an after-dinner liquor and didn't have to work a hospital night shift after dinner :(
The improveables: Now I can say it; overall, the dishes we had were fine. I didn't have an oh-my-God-sigh-with-pleasure influencer moment with most of what we ordered. Like a sucker, I ordered the tortelli because I saw a video on how fabulous it was. I would not use fabulous to describe this dish. It wasn't that it was inedible, it just didn't blow my little mind. I moved on to the scallop crudo, which had the same phenomenon of being decent, but missing the mark on something. Perhaps it was how cellophane thin the scallop was shaved, or the heavy pour of olive oil on top. The squid ink bucatini didn't disgust me like it seems to have disgusted other reviewers here, but it had a similar flavor and texture to jjajangmyeon, a Korean/Chinese-style black bean noodle dish that you can easily find elsewhere for half the price of the bucatini. The shocker of the meal was perhaps the bone-in Porterhouse. To its credit, it was seasoned very well and cooked to medium rare, so the actual eating experience was not horrid. The UNpleasant part was finding out at the end of the meal that it came with a $150 pricetag (!!!). Looking at comparable steaks at other local steakhouses such as Ringside, Morton's, and Ruth's Chris, $150 is kind of middle ground for a steak of that heft. But be mindful of that if you decide the Porterhouse is for you.
Keeping in mind that Grand Amari is new to the Portland dining scene, I think that they are doing several things right so far. The servers hustle, and I have to highlight them as the stars of the whole show. But speaking generally, I hope that the flavors of the food continue to be tweaked in order to justify what their prices are. Again, this is not a bad restaurant. I just think that this is a lesson in not immediately falling for hype. Most people I know have heard of this place because of food influencers, who often give pretty nondescript and unhelpful evaluations of meals, and equate a cute interior and/or newness to a 5-star dining experience.