Aaron C.
Yelp
To bolster my efforts to re-learn how to properly use my wok while cooking at home, I've started following the cooking exploits of the Seattle-based, James Beard-nominated chef/author J. Kenji Lopez-Alt, whose youtube videos provide fantastic, step-by-step point-of-view videos on wok seasoning, maintenance, and (correct) use.
More than once, Lopez-Alt has referenced Mapo Tofu (or Mabo Dofu, as you're inclined) as his very favorite childhood dish and, having heard at least one other Chinese chef I respected intimate the same, I set out to find a culturally authentic platter of it. Googling "best Mapo Tofu in Salt Lake City," I was directed to, among a couple other suggestions, Great Wall restaurant in the Chinatown Salt Lake plaza off of State Street. I was on my way.
I found Great Wall through the main doors to the Chinatown Supermarket, and it was literally the type of establishment that likely gave rise to the expression "hole-in-the-wall." With two empty steam tables tucked up against the walls flanking the entrance, red and green walls, and a dining room the size of a middle-class living room, it was a masterpiece of understatement. I've learned not to be put off by this, however, as some of my best meals have been had in settings of the sort. My apprehension deepened when the usual complementary water was brought to the table, but was room temperature, and had no ice in it. If it had been just a few degrees warmer, and in a bowl, I might have undertaken the traditional washing of hands and/or silverwear, but it was in a glass, and I suspected that doing so would have drawn unwanted attention.
Every bit of uncertainty was, however, rewarded with a piping hot bowl of aromatic Mapo Tofu with an accompanying bowl of rice. As far as I'm concerned, nothing is better than having my food arrive so hot that I can't eat it straight away, and I was delighted. There was no question that the best way to enjoy this would be with a large spoon: a little bit of rice sharing space on my untensil with the Mapo Tofu like old friends. I started picking small bites off of the edge and blowing on it, and I have to say that I can see how a dish this delicious could invoke childhood memories. The bean sauce and red chili peppers brought a heat that charmed the dish, but didn't overwhelm the palette. A perfect amount of employed Sichuan peppercorn drew the dish's heat forward but, at the same time, provided the exquisite numbing sensation that has infatuated Chinese diners for over two thousand years. The silky smooth tofu was a perfect counterpoint to the texture of the ground pork and chopped scallions, and subtle notes of garlic and ginger seemed to close each bite the way a conductor pinches off a prolonged note. If there was any American culinary experience that would be analogous, it would, perhaps, be a piping hot bowl of Texas chili on a very cold day.
Was I overwhelmed by the hospitality? No. Was the dining room elegant? Not even a little bit. Would I go back for another serving of Great Wall's Mapo Tofu? Any day of the week!