Henrietta
Restaurant · Westlake ·
Daytime deli sandwiches & market; evening bistro with ricotta dumplings
Daytime deli sandwiches & market; evening bistro with ricotta dumplings
"A casually excellent neighborhood restaurant-market in Echo Park, this spot pairs a welcoming posture with a winning menu of accessible modern Californian dishes, making it great for a casual date or low-key dinner. Start with the unusual persimmon and avocado salad with endive and red onion; the blend of sweet, bitter, sharp, and rich isn’t wholly intuitive but really works, with ingredients layered so you can scoop a little of each and buttermilk dressing smoothing the spikier edges. Distinctly unphotogenic ricotta dumplings—oblong beige lumps in a brownish broth—make up for their homeliness with comforting depth; the wrappers are pleasingly toothsome, and I’d accept the server’s recommendation to get grilled bread to sop up the broth. Striped bass arrives with crispy skin and equally crispy sunchoke shavings over a bed of green chile sauce; the char plays well with the hearty fish and the contrasting textures yield fun bites. The room feels warm and comfortable with a vintage bent—a stylish mishmash of posters and photos covers an alcove and plates look like your grandmother’s without the stains and chips—and evenings buzz with couples and friends or even a small company holiday dinner; it gets crowded but not chaotic. Beyond dinner, it doubles as a market with curated food gifts; owner Max Lesser is especially proud of the tea selection, including local Flowerhead and a few special jars from Bellocq Teas in Brooklyn, which you can also order as an after-dinner sip." - Ben Mesirow
"Echo Park has a new all-day, market-restaurant hybrid that comes from aChi Spaccaalum. During the day, Henrietta makes sandwiches like a turkey porchetta panini, while dinner has plates like short rib rigatoni, ricotta dumplings, and pork collar. There’s a big wine shelf along the wall, plus tables stocked with things that would make great last-minute gifts for your grandma, like fancy jams and olive oils." - Cathy Park
"A new all-day deli, market, and restaurant on the edge of Echo Park and Westlake, this spot from Max Lesser (who previously opened Chicago’s the Publican and worked at Chi Spacca) sits in the same complex as Clark Street Bakery. Daytime brings sandwiches like a broccolini panini and turkey porchetta alongside deli case dishes such as a lima bean salad made with Rancho Gordo beans. In the evening, the menu shifts to ricotta dumplings, rigatoni topped with short rib, and a half chicken that’s a nod to San Francisco’s Zuni Cafe. The independent producer-focused wine list, guided by Katie Vonderheide (previously of Silverlake Wine), spans bottles including Old World Chianti, French chilled red, and Spanish cava; bottles are also available to take home, and dinner reservations are available on Resy." - Rebecca Roland
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