Frank W.
Yelp
I intend to be a regular at Hibino. I liked it from the moment I stepped inside and saw the light wood furnishings in a minimalist setting, with a long communal table; it looked appropriate for the cuisine. The decor is not what matters though. The food is what counts, and I can attest that their quality is excellent.
I had all but given up on sushi in Queens. I love eating sushi. I love living in Queens. But I had consumed so much sub-standard raw fish in the world's borough, I was lamenting I would need to trek to Manhattan. The exception to that judgment is omakase, which has been a craze, but the places offering that set menu also are at a price point that can be justified only for special occasions. Yet post-pandemic, I have been diligent testing out new establishments. I have been determined. And I I have discovered restaurants such as this, which are worthwhile. Although this venue is just about in "the City," qualifies as within my home borough.
I went with a friend. He lived in Tokyo for years. I will not say something about this restaurant. Some observe a place must be good ie authentic because the diners are an ethnicity matching their expectations. That might be superficially rational. Yet it is based on the same type of inference as racial profiling. I reject it even if it is not invidious. (The same reasoning can be extended to denigrate Japanese restaurants with non Japanese chefs, after all. If you are troubled by racial stereotypes, you should be by all of them.) For what it is worth, ninety percent of the patrons were East Asian. My friend and one fellow in the corner were the exceptions, as Caucasians.
We both had a starter and the chirashi. I prefer chirashi. It is efficient and economical. I am spoiled by Japan Inn (in Washington, D.C.), among the most venerable Japanese restaurants in the nation, catering to a diplomatic crowd, closed for two decades now. They had two lacquer boxes worth, one with the fish, another with all the mushrooms and pickles and other toppings such as pork floss. We had the uni and ikura add ons. The price was remarkable. It was reasonable.
My only quibble is the tofu. I thought it was store bought, not made there or by another artisanal small batch maker. It was not unacceptable; it simply wasn't as good as the remainder of the meal. I remind myself, however: what do I know. I likely have eaten more tofu than the average American, but less than the average vegan. And this isn't a big deal. My wife loved her Volvo Cross Country, which she drove for 21 years. A car enthusiast magazine complained about the rustic stitching on the seats. That was not significant, one way or the other, to our use and enjoyment of the vehicle. That is what the tofu issue is: I can partake of the bounty of the menu, and perhaps there will be a different tofu dish later that will allow me to sample it again (or a different version).
The service was attentive. That is always positive and deserving of being called out. The entire experience made for a great evening. The extra feature is a subway stop at the corner. You are unlikely to do better in Queens. Highly recommended.