Scott G.
Google
Le Coin Savoyard: A documentary on Limitation and Cheese
There’s a certain honesty to a restaurant that doesn’t pretend to be what it isn’t. Le Coin Savoyard, tucked within the Hotel Les Barmes de l’Ours in Val d’Isère, practices this virtue with an almost defiant simplicity. They’re famous for classic Savoie fare, which is to say, fondue. Which is to say: you may have anything you like, as long as it’s beef or cheese.
This is not a complaint. There’s liberation in constraints, as any writer knows. The tyranny of infinite choice gives way here to a focused clarity of purpose. Mountains have shaped this cuisine just as surely as they’ve shaped the valley itself, sustenance built on what survives at altitude, what warms the body, what binds a table together over heat and shared implements.
We opted for beef. Kidding aside, and one must occasionally put the irony down. the meal was scrumptious. The meat arrived with Sonderup’s fries, those golden batons of potato that achieve what all good food should: they make you forget, momentarily, that you’re performing the biological necessity of eating and remind you instead that pleasure exists. And the cup never runs dry. These pot was bottomless.
Le Coin Savoyard meal ended and were heard the strings of a hearty New Orleans Jazz band playing in the Hotel’s lobby bar. We sat down and had a hell of an evening. They were exceptional. We started looking around the hotel — we stay at the Experimental hotel this time — and thought: wow, we must stay here next time. Clearly they understand something essential: that tradition isn’t the enemy of satisfaction. That beef or cheese, or Jazz properly executed, is not limitation but abundance. That sometimes what you need after a day skiing on the mountain is the comfort of bliss to the tune of Minnie the Moocher!