Rame N.
Yelp
Wtf. Seriously, wtf. Let me explain:
"Quanjude" is a brand name in China known for over a century. This is a historic Peking duck franchise originating in Beijing serving traditional fare since the Qing dynasty. A highlight of any trip to Beijing, they've also expanded across China and internationally in recent decades.
... but the restaurant I'm reviewing (iDen) is anything but that. This is a facsimile in quite bizarre way. First where the expectation differs, then an objective, absolute review.
Any authentic Quanjude is going to understand classic decor, table setup and positioning for serving duck, ambience and lighting. Instead of a traditional restaurant, iDen simply retained the deco it inherited from the French restaurant that once stood in that same spot, paired it with some Miami-esque gaudy dinnerware and tableware. Walking in, this was my first hint I walked into bizarro land.
The duck I had was ordered ahead of time and came on time. Traditionally, at Quanjude (and actually any Chinese restaurant who dares to put the words "Peking Duck" on its menu), the first thing the waiter would ask is "how would you like the rack?" In other words, the bulk of the meal is in the non-Peking duck parts of the duck. Valid options include, in a soup, fried rice, pan fried in salt, etc. Not so at iDen, who not only didn't offer to include such preparation as part of the duck, but when prompted whether they would do this for an up charge, simply said, "no we don't do that at all". They expect me to take the duck carcass home and cook it myself.
The net result is, I walked in excited thinking this was an authentic Peking duck experience at NYC premium prices, and walked out thinking this was a huge mistake and still hungry despite paying close to 200$ for the meal. I would be very surprised if this restaurant actually had anything to do with the official QuanJuDe name from China. This may very well be a bait and switch. Given that QuanJuDe is both an international group and a listed company, I hope if this place isn't entirely legit, that it gets hit with a lawsuit very soon.
Now a quick objective review of the duck itself: it was actually quite nice. Probably above average for NY, but pretty below bar for any restaurant that can legitimately claim "Peking duck" in its name. The skin was crispy and not greasy, the meat was tender and fragrant, and the pancakes and condiments were cooked exactly correctly. On the duck itself I would give it a 4/5. The table side prep left much to be desired. The first few cuts ("the skin") were textbook, but the subsequent carving was quite shaky and rough. I am not sure how well trained the carver is - this would likely not pass the bar in China.