Tucked away in Lakeview, Istmo serves up delightful Oaxacan brunch dishes like tlayudas and papas bravas in a warmly vibrant atmosphere.
"This Mexican restaurant and bar arguably pours the best cocktails in the neighborhood, beautiful concotions with artful presentations that blow away the boring options that fill Clark Street. Istmo is a Oaxcan restaurant with a chef who grew up in Mexico, took a detour to play soccer in Europe, and returned to Chicago. The pineapple aguachile is one of Chicago’s best dishes presently, a bright and stunning vegetarian dish with the perfect balance of sweet and acidity; you won’t miss the fish here. The mole is on point in the chicken dish, and there’s also weekend brunch. Fans shouldn’t expect food to be this good near the ballpark, but Istmo shatters many preconceptions. Looks like Wrigleyille has more than margs and chips and salsa when it comes to Mexican cuisine." - Ashok Selvam
"Breakfast has been the star at Istmo since it opened in Lakeview in July. Carlos López Muñoz, who oversaw the kitchen at Leña Brava, showcases Oaxacan comfort food like chilaquiles made with heirloom corn chips, along with spins on American classics like a heirloom blue corn pancake topped with strawberry compote and whipped cream. The restaurant just got its liquor license, so they’re now serving hibiscus and strawberry mint mimosas along with a mole carajillo. Make a reservation through OpenTable." - Sam Nelson
"The chef at Istmo is from Oaxaca and worked at several Mexican restaurants, including with Rick Bayless, before teaming up with the owner of Xurro, the chain of Mexican dessert slingers. Open for breakfast and dinner while they find their feet near Wrigley Field, find fantastic red mole, pancakes, tortas, and more. The black mole is a holdover from the chef’s time at Lena Brava and with time it’s only gotten better." - Ashok Selvam
"A Oaxacan restaurant in Lakeview owned by Carlos Covarrubias, normally closed on Mondays but also part of the Day Without Immigrants protest." - Ashok Selvam
"At Istmo, Chef Carlos Muñoz brings childhood memories to his Rosca de Reyes, drawing inspiration from the wood-fired oven at the beloved bakery of Roselia Espinoza Santiago, known in the Oaxacan town of Juchitán as Na’ Rosa Bollo. Muñoz has crafted a Rosca de Reyes that is both familiar and elevated. His version features a brioche-like dough topped with candied figs, pineapple, and lime — representing the jewels of a king’s crown. Muñoz will offer his Rosca de Reyes during brunch from Saturday, January 4 through Sunday, January 12, giving diners a chance to savor this festive bread beyond Día de Reyes." - Brenda Storch