Aaron Arnold
Google
It would be uncouth to compare John Mueller's new business to that of his sister/former business partner's down the street - family drama might help feed a tabloid frenzy, but certainly won't feed a hungry BBQ lover. So I will merely say that while I do slightly prefer La Barbecue, John Mueller Meat Company is unquestionably worth a stop on your next BBQ grand tour.
Way back in the J Mueller trailer days of 2012, I would have put Mueller's brisket right up there with Aaron Franklin's - an amazing peppery, crusty bark, with plenty of beautifully marbled fat around the edges and a moist molten core of brisket flesh. His new stuff is different; not necessarily worse, but it tastes slightly different. When I was there, the fatty edging along the deckle had a delicious crisp tinge to it that I've never had anywhere else, which made up for the rest not being quite as moist as I remember. The beef ribs were great - big blocks of tender rib flesh that went well with the brisket. Prices are $8 for a half pound of brisket or beef ribs, $7 and $6 for pork shoulder and sausage respectively. He does that annoying nickel-and-dime thing where jalapeños are 40 cents.
I didn't try the sausage or the pork shoulder, but a guy visiting from Chicago sitting next to us did, and he seemed to enjoy them plenty. The sauce has to be some of the most distinctive I've ever tried, with all kinds of complicated flavors to go along with the basic tangy, sweet base of typical barbecue sauce. I didn't try the sides either, but next time the squash is definitely going to have to get a whirl, and maybe the coleslaw as well. Obviously the meat is the main attraction, but good sides never hurt.
I don't think it was quite as good as his former haunt, but when I was here the other day, that same visitor claimed that La Barbecue had a four hour wait, which would make even the staunchest, most seasoned Franklin fan blush. True or not, the line moved fast at JMMC and the food was excellent, so on the whole the only downsides I can see are that it's cash only, it doesn't offer free beer like Some Places do, and it's maybe not QUITE as good as its two more famous rivals in the neighborhood. Oh, and apparently you might get some of the legendary John Mueller customer service experience if he feels like it (he was perfectly pleasant to us, the first people in line on a Tuesday morning). Definitely give it a try.