Steve Meng Yee
Google
“Senses working overtime” is what you will experience before, during, and after a meal at K by Vicky Cheng – a newish eatery in the restaurant network run by Hong Kong Michelin-star chef, Vicky Cheng (VC).
Sitting high on the 56th floor of the Empire Building in Bangkok’s Chong Nonsi district, K by VC delivers a fun, surprising, unforgettable, all-sense stimulating dining experience.
The K by VC sensory journey begins on the ground floor. Guests are invited to walk through a mysterious passageway to the lift lobby. Like the entrance, the spacious lift catches the eye with its elaborate decorations, a large chair, and splashes of gold paint.
From the lift, diners walk into a grand lobby and are welcomed to the dining area and bar, which is long, majestic, and has wall-to-ceiling glass providing panoramic views of the city and the Chao Phraya River.
The design, layout, and view are breathtaking. K by VC is a far cry from the 70-baht noodle stalls that are my normal, natural happy places - but changing it up is good for the mind, body, and taste buds.
My pulse raced as we walked to a private dining room booked by our kind friends from Manila. This space was equally spectacular from the incredible view of Silom Road, to the massive round table, stunning light fittings, and chichi plates and cutlery.
A tasting menu was the order of the day, featuring Chef Cheng’s French-cuisine-inspired takes on classic Cantonese and Thai cuisine dishes. Being brought up on Cantonese food and now living in Bangkok, the menu was right up my alley, and I couldn’t wait to tuck in.
As someone who often eats too fast, I had to pace myself because dining at K by VC is a marathon, not a sprint – slow and steady is a must because the vast tasting menu covers a lot of ground and satisfies all taste buds.
Just as parents find it hard to pick a favorite child, it was hard to pick a favorite dish, but here are some that were “more favorite” than others.
Although it looked like an alien creature on a plate, the Chiu Chow Style Raw Ama Ebi (a deconstructed prawn?) was a showstopper for the visuals alone – I also liked the freshness of the dish.
The char siu Iberico was another fave. Char siu is a class-A comfort food for me, and this Iberico pork version was tender, juicy (the right amount of fat), well-seasoned, and marinated. Two slices weren’t enough – I might sell an organ for more of this stuff.
“Small in size, but huge in flavor” describes the smoked duck tongue, which also made a deep impression. Grilled squid served over an emerald-green Sichuan pepper sauce was also jaw-dropping. Char-grilled squid paired with a hot’ish, peppery, sweet’ish green sauce is a combo that delivers big time.
Like the menu and restaurant layout, the service was top-class. While I didn’t get his name, five stars to our host (a gentleman with a buzzcut haircut) who could not have done more to look after us. He was knowledgeable, amiable, and helped carry leftovers to our cab – what a star!
The entire K by VC meal experience was five-star, and I look forward to what’s coming next in his gastronomical adventures.