Kenneth R.
Yelp
The SF Chronicle article https://www.sfchronicle.com/food/restaurants/article/fikscue-barbecue-bbq-alameda-18637563.php begins as follows:
"The West Coast has emerged as a special breeding ground for new growth in American barbecue, with many enterprising chefs incorporating flavors from their respective heritages to great effect. Here, KaoKao Grill in Berkeley uses wood smoke to tweak Chinese char siu...."
Reading it made me want to visit College Avenue as soon as possible. I tried ordering takeout over the weekend, but the possible pickup times kept receding whenever I revisited the website. I concluded that the good move would be to visit the brick and mortar shop at noon in the middle of the week. This plan worked well: I was able to step right up to the register and order a bowl of char siu for consumption on the premises. The cash price for my lunch came out to $23.50, including tax and a very modest tip; if you pay with a credit card, you'll be charged a bit more because of the card companies' processing fees.
Waiting for my meal, I quickly understood the receding pickup times -- dishes take long to prepare in part because the meat needs to be reheated in their oven. I had plenty of time to look around the interior; the place is very minimally furnished and seems kind of grungy. There are tables upstairs, but I wanted to stay down on the ground to watch the action. The most natural places to sit seemed to be the front window alcoves, but the alcove I chose had a big bunch of flies, who had made the same decision as me. Moving to the center of the dining area, I left the flies behind.
After about 20 minutes, my meal was ready. Served in an attractive bowl, it consisted of a bed of rice, a hefty portion of heavily smoked pork and quite a large number of thin pickle slices. Though I loved all the tastes, I was quite relieved that I wouldn't be due for my annual cholesterol check for another 51 weeks. The meat was very rich (ok, fatty), and also both salty and sweet. (The glaze on top of the barbecue had a sugary crunch to it.) Water is available -- you'll need it!
Overall, I loved my Kao lunch. If I lived or worked in this area, I'd come by regularly, though perhaps not super frequently. Once per month would arguably be perfect.