Nestled in Portland's vibrant Kerns neighborhood, this stylish hostel boasts sleek dorms, private rooms, and a lively bar-restaurant scene complete with a sauna and rooftop views.
"Kex opened into the teeth of the pandemic in late 2019, only to close again until early summer 2021. Like the Woodlark, the hotel offers two distinct hotel bar options: downstairs at Dottír, a Euro-Icelandic-retro playground of antique interior design, and upstairs at Lady of the Mountain, a rooftop bar with downtempo electronic music and shimmering views of the city. Cocktails at both spots are excellent — the house-infused aquavit tasting at Dottír is particularly can’t-miss — but the unique on-tap wine menu here is the standout, drawing on close relationships to some of the Willamette Valley’s most interesting producers, including Johan Vineyards, St. Reginald Parish, and Cameron Wines." - Jordan Michelman
"After a lengthy closure, the Portland outpost for Icelandic hotel Kex will reopen for the summer, alongside its restaurant and rooftop bar." - Brooke Jackson-Glidden
"Alex Jackson had been running the kitchen at the restaurant within the now-empty hotel Kex." - Brooke Jackson-Glidden
"Why did this hotel catch your attention? What's the vibe? This is one handsome hotel lobby, almost too distracting to work in; trying to concentrate on emails while admiring the myriad clever design touches and covertly observing the eclectic clientele is a big multitasking ask. Blame any related unproductivity or excessive lingering on Icelandic designer Hálfdan Pedersen, who transformed the hotel’s 3,000-square foot ground floor into a striking open lobby, restaurant, bar, and library, embellished with reclaimed wood and artifacts from the historic building’s renovation plus painstakingly sourced mid-century furniture, light fixtures, and objets d'art culled from all over the world. From the convivial oval bar trimmed with rare Egyptian tiles, to the rooftop patio perfect for cocktail-heavy Sunday brunches, to the 12-seat subterranean cedar sauna, everything here is set up to facilitate mixing and mingling, so hop on a stool, order an aquavit and pear brandy-spiked Swan Dress or house beer, and ask the traveler next to you what they thought of Eurovision Song Contest: The Story of Fire Saga. What's the backstory? The first Kex hotel originated in Iceland; built in 2011 by Icelandic entrepreneur Kristinn Vilbergsson, in collaboration with Icelandic set designer Hálfdan Pedersen, it set up shop in a former biscuit factory (fun fact: Kex means biscuit in Icelandic). In Portland, the duo worked with Greenlight Development to revitalize the 1912-built National Register of Historic Places-designated Vivian Apartments building, which lie fallow in one of the city’s most rapidly-evolving and exciting eastside neighborhoods. Tell us all about the accommodations. Any tips on what to book? As a “social hotel,” the Kex offers both private and hostel-style accommodations, so decide exactly how social you’re feeling and gauge your bathroom-sharing tolerance level before booking. Private rooms offer king or queen beds framed by refurbished fireplace mantel headboards, with organic mattresses and linens, antique nightstands and desks, and either private or European-style shared bathrooms. In the bunk rooms, you’ll find the same high-quality furnishings and bedding, plus privacy curtains, individual reading lights, lockers, hooks galore, and custom-sewn canvas pouches for phones, water bottles, and that copy of Halldór Laxness’s Independent People you picked up earlier at Powell’s City of Books. Is there a charge for Wi-Fi? Free high-speed Wi-Fi is yours for the surfing. Drinking and dining—what are we looking at? With chef Alex Jackson—formerly of San Francisco’s Michelin-starred Sons & Daughters—at the kitchen’s helm, the hotel’s Nordic-meets-Northwest-influenced restaurant, Dóttir, was instantly competitive in one of the country’s most food-obsessed cities; must-order dishes include the salt and vinegar fries, roasted whole cabbage with whey caramel and sweet and sour dill, and anything lamb-related. End the evening at Lady of the Mountain, the rooftop patio bar named after the national personification of Iceland, looking out over the city with ace Bar Manager Lydia McLuen’s Krogstad Aquavit and hazelnut orgeat-infused The Sumarsol cocktail in one hand, and the other hand buried in a bowl of brined potato chips with smoky skyr and caramelized onion dip. (In case you’re wondering about that six-story technicolor dream box across the way, it’s the Fair-Haired Dumbbell, a decidedly unique hand-painted office building by quirky Guerrilla Development, also responsible for the live tree-faced Tree Farm building adjacent to nearby Morrison Bridge). What type of travelers will you find here? Freelance writers wax poetic over the roasted cabbage while hashing out their next book proposal, a steady stream of locals—most of whom know and embrace at least one hotel staff member—catch up with friends and colleagues over beet-pickled eggs and expertly-mixed cocktails, adventurous couples in matching Patagonia puffers plot out their Mt. Hood National Forest trail run and subsequent eastside brewery crawl, groups of globetrotting travel buddies discuss sightseeing strategy over a bountiful rooftop brunch What about the neighborhood? Does the hotel fit in, make itself part of the scene? The Kex fits right into this exciting, rapidly-evolving stretch of the inner Southeast industrial district, and while it’s a 10-minute walk over the Burnside Bridge to downtown, there’s plenty to do within walking distance—book the tasting menu at legendary Le Pigeon (or just slip into laid back neighboring sister restaurant Canard for oysters, steam burgers, and really good champagne), sip drinking chocolate at Cup & Bar’s cafe and award-winning sour beers on Cascade Brewing Barrel House’s breezy patio, hunt down vintage treasures at Redux or hard to find designer threads and housewares at hidden gem Una, and book a CBD-infused Bliss Out massage and soak at nearby Knot Springs spa and social club. Is there anything you'd change? Parking in this neighborhood can be challenging; if there’s a spot in the hotel’s small gated but unpatrolled lot, a pass is $22 a night, or take your chances with metered street parking—download the city’s official app, Parking Kitty, to make your life a whole lot easier. Any other hotel features worth noting? On the basement level, a cozy communal kitchen is available for all guests’ use; you’ll find a refrigerator, induction burner, microwave, toaster oven and enough cookware and utensils to muddle through a simple stir-fry or bowl of pasta. Pop in to see what’s going on in the subterranean-chic 850-square-foot Gym & Tonic gallery and event space, which opened with a public exhibit by Portland-based French artist Thomas Le Dluz, and hosts everything from intimate wedding dinners to live bands. And yes, of course there’s a sauna—a 12-person Western red cedar sauna handcrafted by Portland-based Finlandia Sauna; swimsuits required. Bottom line: Worth it? Why? If you’re willing to sacrifice, or simply don’t require tons of privacy, prefer to splash out on big experiences verses a big hotel room, love Scandi style and skyr-spiked cocktails, want to be within walking distance of Portland restaurant legends like Le Pigeon and Nong’s Khao Man Gai, and don’t mind one bridge’s length between you and downtown, this fun and friendly design-forward Nordic nook will hold a special place in your heart." - Jen Stevenson
"The Kex hotel’s rooftop bar, Lady of the Mountain, will start serving brunch Saturday, with a menu of smoked-fish-topped bagels, lamb sausage with hash browns, and cold-smoked pork schnitzel with poached eggs. The brunch cocktail list includes the customary mimosas and a version of a Bloody Mary with miso, cumin, and a choice of vodka or aquavit. Make a reservation on Tock." - Brooke Jackson-Glidden
