Asuka N.
Yelp
We ended up booking Kichisen as our last lunch in Kyoto, and the concierge at our hotel was able to get us set up with a full-length kaiseki dinner menu even though it was lunch hour. The entrance is pretty unassuming, as most of the buildings on the side of the road appear more residential, but once inside, it has the familiar feel of a Japanese restaurant - winding tatami hallways that eventually end up with you in one of the private rooms. You don't sit on the ground directly, but you do sit in chairs that are lower than average. Because my last name is Japanese, I don't think the restaurant was prepared for a mainly English-speaking party - so for the most part, we were on our own with regards to figuring out the details of the food. That said, they did bring out a folder with an English-language history of the kaiseki meal and how it progresses - very helpful (and informative, given we had previously eaten kaiseki in Kyoto). And overall, the service - from serving the food quickly to keeping our tea and water always filled.
As with the other kaiseki meals, we started off the meal with alcohol - first, a sweeter plum wine, followed by the more traditional sake. The first couple of courses emphasized presentation of seasonal fruits and vegetables - in particular the mushrooms served inside an apple core (which added a muted sweetness), and, more impressively, chilled pumpkin soup served inside...a small chilled pumpkin - extremely delicious and very well-executed. The following soup was fried hamo and mushroom in very clear dashi broth that was both light but still really flavorful. The next course was absolutely decadent - squid sashimi, very creamy, served with tofu and a medium-boiled egg, making for an absolutely delicious plate, with the squid being of the best caliber. However, the sashimi course next outdid it - thick slices of the highest-grade o-toro I've ever seen, including high-end sushi restaurants. Combined with shrimp that really tasted more like sweet shrimp, and this was one of the best sashimi plates I've probably ever had.
We moved on to a multi-part course, where crunchy roe was wrapped inside of black seaweed - a nice change of pace. We were then given a smokeless charcoal grill to lightly grill the mushrooms and gingko nuts we were given - an interesting concept, for sure, but probably the least interesting item on the menu. More interesting (and flavorful) was the hamo that was steamed on the grill next with some light vegetables in dashi broth - very light and clean flavors. But I really liked the gohan that finished off the main course. With some bits of chicken and mushroom, it was really flavorful to start with - and there was a whole bowl of it, enough for two servings each - but the shredded egg that was on top was the first time I'd ever seen egg presented in that manner in any dish, and it was light enough to not really add heaviness, but at the same time, it added that nice, slightly sweet eggy flavor that is done really well in Japan. The palate cleanser was an assortment of fruit, and dessert was very typically Japanese - a slice of red bean mochi, with the red bean flavor and coloring baked into the mochi completely. We then finished off with very strong matcha - a traditional ending to the meal.
In all, this was a fantastic meal and perhaps the best one we had on our trip to Japan. There were no wrong notes hit, and the food, particularly the rice and the fish, were top-notch in terms of execution and innovation. I'm not sure I'd recommend to all foreigners (or at least make sure they are aware of language barriers ahead of time so they are properly prepared), but if you're comfortable winging it a bit, it is a meal that you will enjoy immensely.