Daniel B.
Yelp
kō*än gets a solid four stars out of me. Ko An has had the best sushi we've tried in the Triangle to date. It was terrific.
Ko An opened exactly one year ago today on November 1, 2019. It opened in the old ãn building (https://bit.ly/2GTJvF6) just off I-40 exit 287 in Cary. Ko An's sister restaurant is so*ca (https://bit.ly/3dpWElb) and Ko An's executive chef used to work at the now-closed bu*ku (https://bit.ly/3dq52RV), both in Raleigh. All three restaurants - Ko An, So Ca, and Bu Ku - serve (or served) Asian food with a modern, refined spin.
The restaurant's menu changes daily. During our visit, there were three dine-in food menus: (1) One menu consisted of 11 small plates and nine large plates, spanning Asian cuisine from Chinese to Korean. The plates were priced at $12-16 each for most small plates and $22-36 each for large plates. (2) There was a sushi menu consisting of nigiri, sashimi, and nigiri/sashimi platters (mostly chef's choice) plus rolls. We primarily ordered from the nigiri/sashimi menu -- you can get a better feel for that below. A selection of eight specialty rolls cost $14-18 each and eight simpler "house" rolls mostly cost $6-9 each. (3) The dessert menu featured five desserts priced at $11-12 each.
For drinks, Ko An had a skillfully-constructed drink menu that included craft cocktails, sake, local and imported beers (three from Raleigh), and Scotch.
I discovered Ko An on Yelp. I was looking for a restaurant that served sushi and had a covered patio. I booked reservations using my OpenTable account. Book your reservation for free using OpenTable and earn dining points you can use for discounts at other OpenTable restaurants, to redeem an Amazon gift card, or more. I suggest making a reservation because this place is popular. By the time we left on a Saturday night, every table, inside and out, was taken and there were multiple parties waiting at the bar.
This is a nice restaurant. It's contemporary and leans upscale, but the atmosphere still feels casual. The bar area, dining rooms (they have several), patio, and even the restroom, are beautiful and elegant. This is a great spot for a date, special occasion, or group night out. The patio has a fireplace, heat lamps, and ceiling fans.
I liked that Ko An's sushi menu offered more than your run-of-the-mill options. That's when you know a restaurant takes its sushi seriously. Here's what we got:
Small plate
* Harker's Island Oysters ($12) - momiji oroshi, scallion, ponzu, kizami wasabi
Nigiri sushi (two pieces each)
* Uni ($9) - sea urchin
* Kaibashira ($7) - chopped scallop heel (adductor muscle)
* Masu ($7) - ocean trout
* Hotate ($6.50) - sea scallop
* Ikura ($6) - salmon roe / red caviar
* Sheepshead ($7)
* Kurodai ($7) - blackhead sea bream
Platter
* Chirashi Sushi ($40) - 20 pieces of sashimi over rice (pieces described below)
Drinks
* The Passport ($12) - light rum, nigori sake, citrus, cachaca, campari, guava
* Asahi Super Dry ($6)
Everything was delicious except for one piece of uni. One of the uni was excellent (buttery, melt-in-your-mouth, delectable). The other, unfortunately, was bad (fishy, repulsive, yuck). I'm not sure what happened there, but I'd order the uni again.
In general, the nigiri was fresh, high quality, and put together the right way. "Authentic," like the kind of sushi you'd find at a "real" Japanese restaurant; not strip mall sushi or the cheap, Americanized kind you'd find at other restaurants. It was classic, pure, and gratifying.
If you want to order a single entree that shows off a good sampling of what Ko An's sushi bar has to offer, I highly recommend the chirashi. Chirashi is basically assorted sashimi (chef's choice) over sushi rice. Ko An's chirashi is one of the more expensive chirashi I've come across, but chirashi can vary quite a bit between restaurants. The version we got from Ko An brought both the quantity *and* quality. The portion size was generous and the fish, like the pieces in the nigiri, were fresh and high quality.
The pieces of fish the chef gave us in our chirashi were ocean trout, maguro (tuna), masunosake (king salmon or chinook salmon), hata (grouper), botan ebi (pandalid shrimp), tamago (Japanese omelette), blackhead sea bream, and shima aji (white trevally or striped jack). The ratio of fish to rice was heavy on the fish, but again, every restaurant interpretation is different. Ko An added a dry seasoning to their rice and also included some kizami wasabi which is fresh wasabi that has been chopped and marinated.
If you like oysters, definitely try the Harker's Island Oysters. These oysters come from the North Carolina coast. Momiji oroshi is spicy grated daikon. The oysters were very fresh, sweet, and succulent.
Dish presentation was outstanding, overall.
Service was fantastic, from our server Quyen to general manager Brandy who promptly contacted me after our visit to clear up a billing discrepancy (they mistakenly overcharged me for the uni and chirashi).