Patrick W.
Yelp
TLDR: Revamped omakase in the space that Gaijin occupied. Chef Darry offers a sushi/kaiseki omakase tasting menu. Prices are $135 for sushi and $175 for kaiseki. Excellent restaurant, worth the cost.
We ended up here on Christmas Eve because, well just because.
The previous group was still wrapping up so we had to wait a bit at the tables in the back. Wow, they really did a terrific job renovating the space. The bar is pristine, lots of maple, marble - it all just works really well together.
Because this was a holiday, they only had a $160 tasting menu available. We ordered a sake and a tea for beverages, then we got started.
Sakizuke, a spotted prawn topped with uni and caviar, nestled in an egg yolk aioli. Sweet, succulent, the bursts of caviar and that creamy sea urchin. A terrific way to kick the meal off.
Zensai. Some sliced yellowtail sashimi, a whelk braised in dashi (unique) and a "shirako" tempura. So I've had shirako or cod sperm sacs before but not in a tempura preparation. This one happened to be topped with shaved black truffles as well. It's still not my favorite but the tempura batter certainly helps tone down the creaminess and richness of this bite.
Mushimono. A chawanmushi or egg custard, with some of the tiniest baby shrimp at the bottom. A bit looser than I'm used to but good.
Takiawase. Here's something new, A5 wagyu is on plenty of sushi menus but usually it's torched, raw or grilled. Here it is steamed. Chef Darry explains that letting it steam in this way is a very Japanese technique (done in a much larger format) but also preserves the true taste of the beef. I still prefer it grilled but I can't say he's wrong here. We were sat directly in front of Chef but this is when he first started speaking with us
Sunomono. This was my favorite non-nigiri dish of the dinner. In fact, this one piece alone may have sold me to try the kaiseki next time I come back. A piece of monkfish liver or ankimo wrapped first in perilla leaf and then bundled by a slice of sea bream. This is topped with salmon roe and white/black sesame seeds. It's a lot going on in one bite but damn, it was delicious. The creamy liver is cut through by the crispness of the perilla leaf and the sea bream. This in combination with these briny bubbles of flavor in the salmon roe.. wonderful.
Nigiri. The sushi begins. Finger wipe is presented and the ginger for between pieces. I absolutely love when I get ginger that's cubed. The regular shavings of it are fine but having it cubed saves me the time of wiggling the excess slices free. One thing I'll point out is that Chef Darry's rice here is phenomenal. The sushi rice he prepares has a very bold vinegar taste, red vinegar to be exact. Perfectly al dente, each piece is prepared to a specific temperature meant to highlight that bite of nigiri you're served. Simply put, rice was on point.
Golden Eye Snapper - Always solid.
Striped Jack - I used to never really appreciate this piece but I do now. Like a lean piece of yellowtail but with the right note of fattiness.
Sea Perch - Oh yes, dial the flavor up. I love this fish and even more so when it has that kiss of flame. It's like the pork belly of the sea, it's so fatty with so much flavor. When it's torched though, it's like that nub on the end of a steak that's perfectly charred.
Arctic Char - This was a complimentary piece from Chef that night. We love gifts, especially ones that taste like this.
Scallop - Good. Very few scallop pieces really amaze me but they're always enjoyable.
Horse Mackerel - Served with a drop of chives on top. That allium accent just rounds out that fishiness perfectly.
Japanese Barracuda - If there's another fish I love torched more than sea perch, its probably this one. The skin tends to flower with this crispy bits and that deliciously smoky flavor. Bravo.
Fatty Tuna - Probably one of the best pieces of very fatty tuna I've had. It was just glistening from every angle.
Sea Urchin - Served just atop the rice, why add more ingredients to something that only needs one. Excellent.
Salt Water Eel - This one is braised in a Crockpot full of sake. Great.
Cut Roll of Fatty Tuna, Sea Urchin and Onions - As you might imagine, crispy roasted seaweed wrapped around a very creamy bite. The fatty tuna and sea urchin make an incredibly delicious filling, with these crunchy little bits of onion. Fabulous.
Dessert. Mochi with berries. All very good but obviously, sushi is the star here.
During dinner we spoke with Darry and he gave us his background while serving. It was nice being able to talk with him about sushi and just all types of food and he was preparing pieces. He's moved around through a variety of fine dining establishments, most recently from Shuko/Uchu.
I thoroughly enjoyed this meal, there is no need to discount it because it is not in Manhattan. Koyo gave me a culinary experience equal to or greater than some of the more established sushi restaurants we've tried in Manhattan.