Tobias
Google
Kuro offers a classic Japanese omakase experience: a cosy restaurant (seating 10-12 guests max along a counter framing the cooking area), with the chefs preparing a surprise menu right in front of you. The dishes were almost archetypical: the wagyu with spinach and shiitake, the tuna dominating the menu in all variations from sashimi and sushi to breaded and tartare. The food was of very high quality and meticulously prepared, and overall the menu offered a wide range of cooking methods and was pleasantly filling.
Then why only four stars? Given the Michelin star and the price tag, I obviously had sky-high expectations, and I have two benchmarks: on the one side, the original high-end omakase restaurants in Japan and Taiwan (where I live); on the other side, the best sushi of São Paulo with their very unique opulent and florid style (think Nakka Jardins). Kuro sadly fell a bit short of both. It stuck so closely to archetypes that even the traditional Asian omakase in my perception offers more surprise; and in my subjective perception, the fish did not quite measure up to the best I had in Asia, maybe as it's locally sourced, maybe due to the logistics chain.
The weirdest and most surprising distraction, however, was the atmosphere. I couldn't make out whether the two sushi chefs were so focused on their work that they came across as tense, or if there was some lingering tension between the two, but for most of the meal I could not feel any joy in their cooking as they silently toiled. If you sit only a meter away from the chefs and keep watching them, of course you mirror the emotions in their body language and facial impression, hence this icy, joyless atmosphere was a major distraction. Only towards the end, the two thawed, suddenly chatting and genuinely smiling a bit.
Service was good and pretty efficient; the only dissonance was that half way into the meal, the waiters already inquired whether one would prefer coffee or green tea with dessert. They promptly proceeded to prepare it so that during the last third of the meal, the smell of coffee was wafting through the restaurant. I do love coffee - but not to my sushi!
Overall I can highly recommend Kuro to whoever never has had omakase and wants to try it; Kuro very well night be the best option in town. As a well-travelled foodie, though, I would prefer the novelty and delight offered by a Nakka Jardins, or the lively atmosphere offered by authentic and excellent Shin-Zushi.