La Boîte à Sardine

"La Boite à Sardine is delightfully over the top at—there are ropes, buoys, and even an actual boat hanging from the ceiling, shelves filled with hundreds of colorful sardine tins, orange life jackets strewn around, and fish-shaped plates. Reigning over this chaos is the owner, who loudly rattles off the day’s dishes that are scrawled on a chalkboard in handwriting only he can read. If it comes from the sea, you’ll find it here—sea urchin, shrimp, oysters, anchovies, and clams, usually with orecchiette. And, of course, their namesake sardines, split in half and filled with garlicky breadcrumbs—they’re briny, buttery, and will probably ruin you for all other sardines moving forward. Note that this spot only serves lunch, and unless you can get here right when it opens at noon, you’ll need to reserve. Air-conditioning: Yes." - sophie friedman

"What do you think of when you hear the phrase “maximalist nautical-themed seafood party”? Welcome to La Boite à Sardine, where the decor is delightfully over the top—there are ropes, buoys, and even an actual boat hanging from the ceiling, shelves filled with hundreds of colorful sardine tins, orange life jackets strewn around, and fish-shaped plates. Reigning over this chaos is the owner, who loudly rattles off the day’s dishes that are scrawled on a chalkboard in handwriting only he can read. If it comes from the sea, you’ll find it here—sea urchin, shrimp, oysters, anchovies, and clams, usually with orecchiette. And, of course, their namesake sardines, split in half and filled with garlicky breadcrumbs—they’re briny, buttery, and will probably ruin you for all other sardines. Note that this spot only serves lunch, and unless you can get here right when it opens at noon, you’ll need to reserve." - Sophie Friedman

"Before you head into this very popular fish house for a meal, do what the regulars do and eyeball the catch of the day at the adjacent fish market that’s owned by the restaurant. Owner Fabien Rugi’s nautically themed decor of ropes, fishnets, and buoys is amusingly tongue-in-cheek, but the cooking here is seriously good, including a regularly changing roster of dishes like fresh sea urchins in season, razor clams from Sète with fresh cilantro and lemon, grilled rouget (red mullet), and fried baby squid. Finish up with a slice of fiadone, Corsican cheesecake. Reservations are essential." - Alexander Lobrano