La Jarana
Restaurant · Buckman ·
Nikkei cuisine: oysters, ceviche, lomo saltado, gluten-free
Nikkei cuisine: oysters, ceviche, lomo saltado, gluten-free
"The pop-up residency within Grand Avenue cocktail bar Lulu, Jarana specializes in Nikkei and Chifa cuisines, a cross-section of Peruvian and Japanese or Chinese food, respectively, that includes long-beloved favorites like lomo saltado. The menu here has become more pan-Asian with time, though Peruvian influence remains present; rocoto-garnished oysters and bowls of ceviche join Vietnamese fish sauce wings and salt and pepper squid. A chicken katsu bowl, built on a foundation of garlic rice and finished with passionfruit sauce, is a strong meal option, while the chimichurri-dressed fries may be better to share." - Thom Hilton
"Jarana, operating out of the back of Grand Avenue’s Lulu, gives new meaning to bar food. There aren’t many spots in town (ok, none) where late-night diners can get a taste of Nikkei cuisine, the Japanese Peruvian cuisine that emerged organically in South America. At Jarana, that translates to steak-filled lomo saltado, sure, but also elegant snacks like oysters dressed with pisco and trout roe and fun hand-held chicken katsu sandwiches, perfect for sharing by candlelight."
"Built around Nikkei cuisine — a fusion of Peruvian ingredients and Japanese technique — Jarana PDX is the kitchen concept at Lulu helmed by Gary Marmanillo (of Casa Zoraya) and Ryley Eckersley (of Quaintrelle). The team aims for a convivial, neighborhood 'jarana' vibe and will begin with a set of standing dishes while sourcing locally and changing seasonally; highlights discussed include oysters with passionfruit and shoyu, rockfish ceviche with fried calamari and Peruvian cancha, and a tiradito made with hamachi, leche de tigre, and trout roe. Other dishes will include pulpo al olivo (octopus in olive sauce with bacon), empanadas using Marmanillo’s mother’s recipe (opening with a chicken and bay shrimp option plus a vegetable empanada), vegan choices such as a tiradito of sous-vide king oyster mushrooms, and plenty of gluten-free options, with pisco sours and other cocktails designed to pair with the food." - Alex Frane
Ember C.
