Kim S.
Yelp
Lunch at La Mar which was recommended by my host Eugenia. As the name suggests it specializes in seafood, more specifically ceviches (eight different varieties) and Nikkei (a sort of South American/Japanese fusion cuisine). It's a very elegant space with zebra striped floor tiles, blue banquettes along the wall beneath high arched windows, and industrial style metal piping suspended from the ceiling.
I was really trying for an alcohol free day today, but found something on the beer menu called Quilmes Stout which at 70 pesos was actually cheaper than a soft drink. The place was almost full when I arrived around 1.30 so I was lucky to get a seat at the bar. A nice gentleman offered to translate the menu for me then suggested he put together a few dishes for me including a ceviche, a tiraditos (like a ceviche but made with slices of sashimi instead of diced fish) and shrimp cooked in butter and garlic. If I was still hungry after that we could just keep going. The guy also suggested I try the national drink, Pisco. I'm in your hands buddy
Quilmes Stout is made in Argentina (the locals call stout Cerveza Negra - black beer) and it is possibly the best I've ever had; very creamy and without the tartness that you find in varieties like Guinness. A little metal bucket of potato crisps arrived with my drink accompanied by two small wooden bowls of dipping dipping sauce. These were the color of Dijon and Hot English mustards respectively, and quite spicy - the "Dijon" noticeably more so.
My first course arrived - ceviche Miraflores - made with fish, prawns, octopus and red onion in a sauce of tiger milk. Very spicy, very fresh. Just gorgeous. Second course was the Tiraditos Doble - lenguado con dos creams: de rocoto y de tres ajies. The sashimi slices were laid around the plate like the petals of a huge flower with the sauce between and underneath them. Another winner. The fish was light but flavoursome, the sauces like two types of spicy mayo.
I'd finished my Quilmes so ordered a cocktail called a Chilcano made with Pisco, lemon, ginger ale and angostura bitters. The waitress warned me in broken English that this was strong. Yep.
I was quite full by now and was secretly hoping that they'd forgotten about the prawns. As it turned out I'm glad they didn't. Juicy and generous in a light buttery garlic sauce, the four prawns were served with the head and on a bed of some type of baked potato-like vegetable (like, maybe potato?). The bill cane to a total of just over a 1,000 pesos - around $90AUD. Considering I paid 1,300 pesos for yesterday's floating feast fiasco I consider it a bargain.
La Mar is a great restaurant with lovely ambience, fast and friendly service (most of the staff didn't speak English but tried politely to explain to me what it was I was actually eating instead of just dropping it on the table which I would have done) and wonderful food. Definitely recommend.