Cee M.
Yelp
This is overwhelmingly disappointing to write.
Lantern's Keep used to be a small haven in the chaos of Midtown. The cocktails used to be exquisite. Classic cocktails and modern classic cocktails were on par with every other cocktail bar of the same make.
Something has drastically changed.
Excited to be back after a few years, my guest and I ordered our same round from the previous time. He ordered a McKittrick Old Fashioned, and I a Violet Fizz. (The McKittrick OF was created at Lantern's Keep, and the Violet Fizz is a classic cocktail from 1939.)
The bartender seemed a little unnerved when I ordered my drink, so I clarified, "it's a Gin and Crème de Violette classic Fizz". He defensively said, "I know what it is. It's just most people don't like Violet Liqueur." Well... I ordered it by name, so I already know I like it.
He left our table side with a nod and went to the bar to make our drinks.
He comes back in about 5 minutes, which is a very fast time to make a Fizz cocktail, and then I recalled-- I didn't hear any cocktails being shaken.
My drink comes as a bright purple Collins. No egg white. No lemon. Possibly no club soda.
I take a sip. It's awful. It tasted like watered down Crème de Violette with a splash of club soda and the ice was already melting quickly. A Violet Fizz done right is Gin, Crème de Violette, fresh lemon, shaken with an egg white (after being emulsified), poured into either a half Collins glass, or a regular Collins glass with ice, and then topped with club soda. The texture is like velvet and the flavor is like creamy lavender.
I was so sad about the cocktail, but maybe the bartender just actually didn't know what the cocktail was, and that would be fine, but his defensive nature came off otherwise.
I look at my guest take a sip of his cocktail and he winces. I take a sip and I almost spit it out.
A McKittrick Old Fashioned is made with Bourbon, Pedro Ximénez Sherry, and Chocolate Bitters, stirred on the rocks and garnished with a Luxardo cherry. It's velvety, slightly sweet, and absolutely lovely.
This cocktail in front of us was the antithesis. It was spicy (maybe Rye whiskey was used?) It was astringent and salty (maybe Fino Sherry was used?-- but whatever was used it tasted rancid). It definitely had orange bitters and was garnished with an orange twist.
It was awful. A drink that was undrinkable.
We pushed our drinks to the opposite side of the table and waited patiently until we could grab the attention of the bartender.
After about 10 minutes, the other bartender finally sees us and he comes over. I ask him how they make their McKittrick and he says "very carefully"....What?
I let him know that these cocktails taste completely off, and in fact are downright awful. He apologizes, acknowledges that we wouldn't be paying for these, and asks if he can make us anything else. We think, let's stick to the menu. We decide to share a Hotel Nacional-- a classic from the 1930s. Which, made right, is a delicious variation of a Daiquiri, another drink with a velvety texture.
In the distance, we hear him shake the cocktail with what sounded like about 50 pieces of pebble ice. 3 minutes go by until he comes over. He places a coupe glass in front of us and pours the cocktail table-side. First thing we see come out of the strainer is water. That cocktail needs to be shaken with heavier ice. That way, it activates the sugar enzymes in the pineapple juice and the cane syrup. What you get after it's shaken properly is a lush foam and all ingredients perfectly combined.
I appreciated his gesture, but man, paying $22 for a cocktail that's watered down, not properly made, and not properly shaken is a tragedy.
I digress. I guess. I'm just so sad, feeling displaced about this bar.
Moreover, I'm wondering what the hell happened to this once fantastic bar?! New ownership and uneducated bartenders is my guess.
What a travesty.
-Fin