Christina F.
Yelp
I sought this restaurant out after seeing it on the list of Paris by Mouth's top 50 restaurants and reading their glowing review. I was not disappointed!
I came solo and at a (reserved) time that's early for Parisians. I was the first one in the restaurant! Lan Groison, the proprietress, was of course attentive in that case, but even after the restaurant filled with boisterous locals, I was never forgotten. Throughout the time I was there, Madame and Chef Groison were warm, friendly, and welcoming. I was given my choice of a couple of tables (or the bar if I wished), and Madame even recommended the one closest to the kitchen so my food would be hottest -- a nice touch. (I appreciate that as a solo diner I wasn't automatically seated at the bar.) I loved that the owners laughed and chatted with everyone -- it gave the whole place a local, homey, unpretentious feel. The two of them do all the service, so it was an extra treat to have Chef come to the table more than once so I could tell him how much I was enjoying his food.
I skipped a starter so that I'd have room for the pommes dauphine side and dessert. I ordered the imperial pigeon entree with those pommes, and Madame recommended the perfect glass of Burgundy to accompany the pigeon, since it was only second time in my life I'd had pigeon and I was unsure. And after Paris by Mouth raved about the pommes, I had to get them.
And OH MY, how wonderful it all was. The pigeon was almost like a filet mignon -- rich and dark and melt-in-your-mouth tender. As the Michelin guide says, Chef is focused on finding just the right jus and this one was perfect, accompanied by the flavor of the tarocco oranges (blood oranges) the bird is roasted with and with a condiment of quince on the side. I really wanted to gnaw on the bones to get every last bit of flavor, LOL! The winter vegetables complemented everything well, giving the whole dish almost the quality of comfort food -- a nice balance of elegant but relaxed that the whole restaurant reaches.
And oh, those pommes dauphine! Crunchy on the outside, they were like explosions of little clouds of perfectly creamy mashed potatoes on the inside. I used them to mop up every drop of the perfect jus of my pigeon, too -- they're seemingly made for that! The wine recommendation was indeed terrific -- the flavors of the food and the wine brought out the best in each other. And I should also mention the wonderful country bread -- there were two kinds, and I only ate one, but it's worth noting because it had a surprising, almost citrusy taste as well as a nutty quality that also went well with my main dish.
Then dessert. I picked the chocolate mousse, made with Marou chocolate from Vietnam and shaped into a cake on a base of feuilletine (crispy crepe flakes) and pain de Genes (almond paste cake), served again with the tarocco oranges. This, too, was fabulous. I've been a bit obsessed with good chocolate mousse since I first came to Paris when I was an impressionable child, and this is one of the mousses that will live forever in my memory. Whichever of the Marou chocolates they used, it also had just the lightest hint of spice, which balanced beautifully with the sweet oranges, and the textures of the perfectly creamy, smooth mousse and crispy and airy base were also a lovely contrast.
Because I was dining alone and because it was all so good, I was finished rather fast. I tried to savor it, I really did, but in some ways I couldn't stop -- I just wanted more! I told Chef this because I didn't want him to be insulted that I inhaled the food and left so fast! It's just because it was so good I couldn't help myself!
The space is very elegant but simple, and the Groisons are eager to help if you have any questions about any of the food. But in the tradition of French service, they don't force themselves on you -- you may have to ask.
I probably could have just stumbled in there at 7:30 (it was a Tuesday in March, after all) without a reservation (and even when I left there were still free tables), but their website is easy enough to use to reserve a table, so I recommend you do that, especially in high tourist season.