Michael U.
Yelp
Owned by Christophe Roure, and Lyon's most recent recipient of a second Michelin Star, Le Neuivem Art was a bit of a last minute decision when piecing together the dining puzzle of Central France, but with skills honed under the likes of Bocuse, Marcon, and Gagnaire the experience proved to be something absolutely distinct with several plates that either matched or outperformed those of his mentors in a sleek environment with the sort of formal yet friendly service that made even those who barely spoke the language feel welcome to sit back, relax, and simply enjoy the ride.
Dressed in natural woods, grassy greens, and salmon pink with crepe paper touches amidst large windows that bathed the room first in natural light, then in that from streetlamps outdoors, it was at reception that guests were greeted by name by the Chef's wife, a woman who took great interest in how I'd heard about the restaurant while telling stories of her own travels to the American Southwest years prior, it was soon after seating that a young man with excellent English skills approached the table with a list of aperitifs and electing for water along with Alain Milliat's Jus Fraises du bois Juice a few questions about the trio of menus were answered, the chef's tasting with one substitution "not a problem at all."
Told that the menu would last about three hours, and soon finding the room at capacity with a noise level that was far more jovial than any of the three-star spots visited without even being 'loud,' it was with a crispy "caterpillar" of dried beef, smooth liver, and vegetables atop a rock that the meal began and progressing quickly to a duo of briny anchovies sweetened by stonefruit alongside tangy yogurt before culminating in a breakfasty bite of pork and eggs, the canapes proved good evidence of things to come, the Gagnaire influence on obscure pairings and astonishing forms obvious from the start.
Starting the menu proper with a foamy emulsion of lemon atop fluffy king crab flan and a sprinkling of lobster eggs plus shaved bottarga helping to bring sours and sweetness to a peak on the palate it was onward to the requested substitute that the menu moved, and although I'm sure the shellfish broth originally offered was as good as it looked at the table next-door I'd be hard pressed to assume it came anywhere near the buttery bites of duck liver offset by compressed cantaloupe and carrot vinaigrette, the later bracingly acidic on its own but a nice way to mellow the sometimes overwhelming melons while also washing oil from the tongue between bites.
Focused on lighter fare, and perhaps only offering butter for the exquisitely crusty bread on request as part of this idea, courses three and four saw Roure continue with seafood and first using a bit of plating trickery to separate textures of the langoustine from crispy tuille as notes of saffron rose high from the broth, a followup of Sea Bass immediately had me singing praiseful comparisons to Troisgros - the almond milk foam topped with green asparagus gelee absolutely dazzling atop mushrooms and supple fish with just enough butter to see it all meld.
Yet again trending light with the menu's final savory, a perfectly seared pigeon breast topped with confit leg served alongside croutons of gingerbread, bitter beetroot, orange marmalade, and simple pan jus it was into cheeses that the tasting transitioned and although perhaps a bit more limited than some of the 3* spots, the selection put together by Le Neuviem Art was actually one of my favorites, the Pinot Noir washed Vully, Comtesse de Vichy, and Fleur du Maquis all quite excellent while the creamy Chevrotin was perhaps the most interesting goat cheese tasted to this day.
Moving from savory to sweet with a budino of semolina flour scented in elderberry beneath a cloud of meringue it was onward to Cherries in forms that the evening marched on and with raw almonds decorating both the whole cherries atop a financier and the soft center to a creamy pink sculpture the flavors were intense yet elegant, the cup of ice cream proving a smooth transition to handcrafted mignardises and chocolates with two types of warm madelines saved for the end.
