Paul Caine
Google
p: sometimes you have the pleasure of experiencing a restaurant that is firing on all cylinders, where the chef’s vision, the kitchen’s execution and the staff’s excellence in service combine to create something that is more than the sum of its parts.
s: i was excited, as i always am, when given the opportunity to try a restaurant with a korean chef, but was not without trepidation because often i have found that when korean cuisine meets another, the korean aspects seem to be missing, or the korean flavors that are present are the ones that are somehow flattened to appeal to the american (or in this case, french) palate.
p: the dining room is small, with perhaps ten tables, and relatively unadorned, save for an architectural wine cellar placed in the middle of the room. upon being seated, we were informed the menu would be served blind, but our server hinted at appropriate wine pairings so we reviewed the list which was excellent and often fairly priced.
s: one of the first things i noticed upon entering was that we were offered small baskets to store our items in, the way you’d maybe put your phone in a locker before working out at the gym. though i hadn’t brought my phone, i really appreciated this because it offered the chance to not clutch at and be distracted by your things, and to simply sit and enjoy what was to come.
p: after the sommelier opened a bottle of clos rougeard, the amuses bouches arrived. one, a flatbread with foie gras, came served atop a bed of dried red beans. the other, a tart filled with haricots verts, had as its finishing touch a dollop of caviar. this juxtaposition of humble ingredients, well-prepared, and luxury items deliciously set the tone for the rest of the meal
s: here’s the thing: i have only as an adult ventured into the world of michelin star dining, entirely due to paul’s knowledge and penchant for exploring what the western culinary world has deemed good, and i have at times been delighted and but also very often befuddled by my experiences. these two amuses bouches may sound similar to many you yourself have had. but these were distinct - i have never liked foie gras before that night, but something in this one reminded me of doenjang, the rich earthy taste, and i enjoyed that between two perfectly executed paper thin pastry. similarly, something about the preparation of the green beans reminded me of the simplicity of the best of banchan. maybe i imagined these influences in these amuses bouches, but the fusion of creativity and beauty and technically perfect execution with familiar korean flavors, was undeniable as the night continued.
p: one gorgeously executed dish after another arrived at our table. a custard, topped with black truffle; tuna and beet topped with an inky black tuile in the shape of a lotus root; lobster topped with watercress and a single bead of yuzu gelee. dish after dish, culminating in the final savory course: a perfectly cooked piece of beef topped with thinly sliced radish. this was french cooking at its most technically adept while never losing sight of its korean soul.
s: i could talk some more about how i’ve also never liked lobster before that night, but this one was so perfectly cooked, i finally understood its appeal. i could talk about the korean broth, so homey that it reminded me of my grandmother’s, but so balanced that it could integrate seamlessly with the other french flavors on the plate. but i think you get the idea, so i’ll just also note that from the sommelier, to paul (our server, different than paul, the diner), were such friendly easeful presences that it made the whole experience all the more enjoyable. i have been lucky enough to eat a lot of special meals and i rank this as one of the best i’ve ever had (paul the diner agrees).
