Bandicoot C.
Yelp
For better or worse, Long March feels like what would happen if a club promoter and architect decided to open a restaurant without consulting anyone in the hospitality trade.
Its design is impressive to look at; from the Mao-era artwork to the subtle lighting and black walls, it feels a bit like dining in a Blade Runner set. Unfortunately, it's not designed for comfort; many customers are crammed into narrow benches, too close for comfort in shared tables, shouting over the noise in the room. The overcrowded dining room constrasts oddly with a huge empty lower level, which seems to have some ambitions as a grungy nightclub.
Similarly, the service style looks inventive at first, with the attractive waitstaff busily typing orders into iPhone-like devices. But they don't seem to have worked out the basics of customer service yet; after being seated you can expect to wait as much as half an hour to have your order taken, during which time several servers will show up at your table, looking very confused, mistakenly bringing you someone else's dishes. After ordering, expect to remind the staff repeatedly which dishes you are still waiting for, and inspect the bill carefully for things you either didn't order or never received. Good luck getting the attention of one of the otherwise friendly waiters, who spend so much time staring into their apparati that they don't notice how many patrons are flagging them down.
While all the little details like these are style over substance, the food (when it does finally arrive) is quite solid. The excellent dumplings will be familiar to regulars at Yum Cha Heroes (which is all around a more pleasant place to dine), but they're well rounded out by a creative and tasty menu of small plates, with some real standouts. The thin-sliced roastbeef and pressed tofu were especially impressive, perfectly balancing earthy and sweet flavors with quality ingredients, at a reasonable price.
The good value of the food is a bit compromised by a wildly overpriced drinks menu, which could be improved by some cheaper house wines to match the price scale of the food. As Hot Spot in Charlottenburg famously demonstrates, inexpensive German wines can be paired beautifully to Chinese spices, but it takes creativity and knowledge that isn't evident here. Pitchers of beer and cider are also on offer on the menu, but attempts to order both were met with more confusion from the server, who told us they never had such things.
Overall, the food shows real promise; I wouldn't be surprised if, once the buzz dies down and the management gets the service tightened up, Long March Canteen emerges as one of the better restaurants in the Wrangelkiez. For now, though, it's defeated by a self-conscious hipness that is already in oversupply in Berlin.