Gary I.
Yelp
Lunetta Dining Room & Bar is located at former Josie Le Balch's eponymous restaurant whose father, Gregoire Le Balch, established a French restaurant & cookIng school, Gregoire, in the SFV. One day a line chef called in sick so Josie at 14 took his place so the rest is history.
Now Lunetta has taken over, and by looks of a Friday evening, it is a happening place full of happy diners making happy sounds.
I had been to Jiraffe in my preYelp days as well as writing a glowing review 10 years later, having had an excellent meal there. Now another DineLA, which informed me of its new reincarnation as Lunetta Dining Room & Bar is the siren call that has lured me back for a reprise.
https://www.yelp.com/biz/jiraffe-santa-monica?hrid=VHZaHsh62t4XC2hqnFV5OA&utm_source=ashare&ref=yelp-android
I was lucky to get the limited 4 bar stool seating in front of the open kitchen where all the action is, and while I was eating Carpaccio, a kind gentleman handed me a cup of Hollandaise to augment to the raw beef dish. I was most fortunate to rub elbows with Emilio Cuyuch, Executive Chef-Partner.
He is a hands on chef expediting food to make sure the plating, composition, right ingredients are present. He even proactively jumps into the kitchen when a problem arises to mitigate the situation. Emilio & his crew are in perpetual motion during peak dining hours. Bravo!
1) Amuse Gueule: tiny Demitasse of puréed foresty mushroom, earthy garlic, bone brothy cream soup topped w/ chives & "cappuccino" foam. Nice appetite teaser that had the taste & scent of good, sweet buttery dairy cream.
2) Seared Carpaccio, named after an Italian artist known for using rich reddish brown tones, Tataki style, ultra thin, plush, velvety slices of crimsom beef dotted w/ eggy, tarragon scented, vinegary Sauce Béarnaise, tIny sprigs of green minty parsley like green herbal Chervil, crunchy garlic bread crumbs added a contrasting texture.
A side of sweet port w/ green stick, high quality peppery olive oil, and the small cup of Hollandaise egg-butter emulsion sprinkled w/ red chile powder were condiments to vary the flavours to pair w/ the beef.
3) Sweetpea Wild Mushroom Agnolotti (not part of my 3 course DineLA menu): Magnificent, chewy, al dente, thick, mouth filling pasta. Open the Agnolotti & a jade spring green mashed sweetpea purée w/ subtle, fresh grassy, sweetness attacks the nose. Shucking for the small peas must have been a tedious, Sisyphean task.
Rich, thick, brothy Velouté butter sauce w/ sheep milk Pecorino cheese has a gastrique to counter the fattiness. Meaty, earthy, wrinkly skinned Morel mushrooms. Julienned snippets of the raw sweetpea shell were a watery, crunchy, green herbal, refreshing delight to clear the palate.
4) Pan Roasted Duck: Chunk of breast is high fire cooked, thick skin side down for good toasty, caramelized chewiness. Meat w/ an aged meaty, lightly gamey, blood minerality is medium rare closer to medium.
Confit of agrodolce, strong citrus fragrant kumquat fruit, Gremolata of highly puréed chestnut, parsley, kumquat adds an herby green juxtaposition to sweetness & meatiness. A watery au jus lookIng vanllla bean sauce is almost
subliminal.
Refreshing feathery Frisée salad, seedless, ruby pomegranate seed, long bean, deep animal fat fried potato nuggets, found a wayward minty, musky, fennel like tarragon leaf.
1-4a) Reed, amiable, personable, knowledgeable, empathetic manager, came by to suggest a northern California Côte du Rhône style red wine to pair w/ the meal. Dark purple black from the Syrah w/ big dark fruit: plummy, blackberry.
Smooth, lush but balanced by svelte acidity, astringency, touch of woody tannins. Finish that is black peppery, green bell pepper.
5) Pistachio Profiteroles: Classic, old fashion dessert where pâte à chox cream puff pastry is filled w/ vanilla ice cream faintly flavoured w/ nutty, woody pistachio (pees tah kee oh). Chocolate drizzles, powdered white confectioners' sugar for effect.
Food here at Lunetta is excellent performing a fine balance between haute cuisine & casual California nouvelle that appeals to a broad range of people.
Chef Emilio & Reed created a friendly, positive, sharing, warm camaraderie that is so rare in a high end restaurant, especially in a restaurant as busy as Lunetta. I can only think of long standing manager, Kevin of Patina and Yōsukè, manager of Château Hanarè presidIng w/ such kindness.
5 stars for a stellar meal that not only fills the stomach but also fills the soul.