Lunuganga
Hotel · Benthota
Dedduwa, Bentota 80500, Sri Lanka
Highlights
Architect Geoffrey Bawa's estate: gardens, lake views, unique rooms
Architect Geoffrey Bawa's estate: gardens, lake views, unique rooms
"The former estate of celebrated architect Geoffrey Bawa, now managed by Teardrop Hotels; the property and its restaurant look over sprawling gardens and Dedduwa Lake, offering a culturally resonant stay tied to Bawa’s legacy (doubles from about $205 in high season)." - Zinara Rathnayake
"The late, great architect Geoffrey Bawa’s jungle home is reveling in a glossy new dawn. While this otherworldly estate on Sri Lanka’s southwest coast remains packed to the rafters with history, it’s now embracing modern comforts thanks to the home-grown Teardrop Hotels collection (also behind the Fort Bazaar in Galle Fort), which manages the property with the Geoffrey Bawa Trust. The meticulous work of the father of tropical modernism shines from every corner, with almost everything as he left it. Bawa spent 50 years curating this wonderland, originally an abandoned rubber plantation, creating his inside-outside spaces and furnishing them with Burgher antiques and objets from his travels. The jewel in the crown is the show-stopping garden, with emerald rice paddies alongside butterfly-shaped ponds and moss-covered Ming pots on manicured lawns. Spread across the house and garden, the 10 spacious bedrooms are unique and sublime: one a glass-walled pavilion framed by trees, another a former cowshed turned gallery. Teardrop’s Midas touch extends to the kitchen, marrying Sri Lankan plates with international dishes made from local produce: egg hoppers for breakfast, grilled fish for lunch and coconut and mustard fish curry for dinner. There’s a breezy veranda restaurant, but Bawa’s preferred lunch spot was under a jackfruit tree, with a salvaged temple bell dangling above. After opening batik artist Ena de Silva’s three-bedroom villa (another Bawa triumph) on the edge of the estate, the Geoffrey Bawa Trust has added a hilltop pool and unsealed the architect’s own bedroom, perhaps the biggest treat of all. From $387. —Harriet Compston" - CNT Editors
"The late, great architect Geoffrey Bawa’s jungle home is reveling in a glossy new dawn. While this otherworldly estate on Sri Lanka’s southwest coast remains packed to the rafters with history, it’s now embracing modern comforts thanks to the home-grown Teardrop Hotels collection."
"Why book Lunuganga? To immerse yourself in the exquisite eye of the late Sri Lankan star architect Geoffrey Bawa at his jungle home on the southwest coast. Set the scene A two-hour easy drive from Colombo, Lunuganga, fantastically tucked away down a rural track, seduces from the get-go. Set on 12 acres, peeking out from the jungle on the banks of glistening Dedduwa Lake; this white 1930s bungalow is tropical modernism design at its most potent—think clean lines meets colonial, coupled with the late architect’s signature inside-outside spaces. It’s the kind of place which doesn’t feel like a hotel. Furnished to the rafters with Burgher antiques and eclectic objets from Bawa’s travels, it’s cozier, with everything in place exactly as he left it. Even the handsome Roman sculpture of Emperor Augustus greeting you at the door has stayed put. However, it’s the show-stopping garden which will stop you in your tracks—a wonderland of Italian Renaissance, English country house and Japanese design. Stumble across emerald rice paddies abutting the lagoon, butterfly-shaped ponds, magical follies and rolling lawns lined with moss-covered Ming pots. Don’t miss the particularly British-looking windmill too. However, there’s no feeling of being trapped in the past at Lunuganga. Now run by the brilliant Teardrop Hotels, in partnership with the Geoffrey Bawa Trust, they have nailed the balance of honoring history yet not forgetting all of today’s comforts. And Teardrop continues to impress—most recently, throwing open the doors of Bawa’s bedroom for guests to stay in and adding a spanking new hilltop swimming pool (in the exact location Bawa planned). The backstory ‘The father of tropical modernism’ Geoffrey Bawa spearheaded a new type of architecture in Sri Lanka. A style which hailed the country’s new dawn (he designed the parliament building, numerous hotels, homes and even a railway station) after the teardrop island gained independence in 1948. The same year, Bawa snapped up Lunuganga, then an abandoned rubber plantation. It was unremarkable, with no garden and drowning in jungle. But Bawa saw potential. Bit by bit, Bawa transformed the estate. The rubber trees were cleared, and the hill lowered to unveil sensational views. The garden was turned into a series of outdoor rooms, planting cinnamon, tamarind and every exotic plant possible, creating hidden follies, carving water features… Even the small pavilions, built to house Bawa’s architectural students, blended perfectly with the planting. Bawa died in 2003, leaving his ‘self-portrait’ to the Geoffrey Bawa Trust. Run by Channa Daswatte, Bawa’s last architectural partner and great friend, the trust offered residences while conservationists worked their magic. In 2020, Teardrop Hotels—already triumphing with their impeccable boutique hotels across the country—took over management, bringing a solid dose of luxury to the party. The rooms There are 10 super spacious bedrooms spread across the main house, garden pavilions, and batik artist Ena de Silva’s villa, another Bawa work of art, on the edge of the estate. Each has a king-size bed and wonderfully unique features: the Gatehouse Suite, with its bathroom framed by a salvaged antique column; the Glass House, completely walled in glass and framed by trees; and the Gallery Room, once a cowshed, with an antique four-poster bed and private courtyard with weathered ochre walls and Miss Havisham-worthy gothic notes. Just be prepared that there are no TVs, iPads or tech. The food and drink The food is terrific, with the kitchen serving up flavor-packed plates (a mix of Sri Lankan and continental), created out of local produce (the coconut and mustard fish curry is particularly good). Bawa’s meticulously thought-out settings take meals to another level. The veranda charms with its sweeping views of Dedduwa Lake and two frangipani trees carefully crafted together. The breakfast table looks out over Cinnamon Hill where the cattle graze; the jackfruit tree, with a salvaged temple bell dangling above, is Bawa’s place for lunch, then there’s a Roman pavilion for afternoon tea and the architect’s G&T spot overlooking the lake at sunset. The spa There is no spa at Lunuganga. It’s more forest bathing here, with the wellbeing focused on spending time in nature. And, with such an overwhelmingly beautiful garden and deep tranquillity, you soon find yourself disconnecting from daily life. The neighborhood/area It’s easy to forget that there is a world outside Lunuganga. But venture out and explore Bawa’s brother Bevis’ house, Brief (known for its fantastic garden), a half hour’s drive away. Or mosey down Madhu Ganga in a small boat at dawn, soaking up the sunrise and visiting a cinnamon grove. The 18th-century Dutch walled town Galle makes for a thrilling day trip, with its boho-chic shops, great restaurants and lovely beaches. The service Teardrop is celebrated for its excellent service. So, it’s no surprise that Lunuganga has a top team. The super smart staff are full of knowledge, brimming with local tips, historical facts and ideas. For a real treat, ask for one of Bawa’s original staff to show you around the garden (Krishna, one of his carers, is a fount of anecdotes). For families The garden is perfect for little ones to let off steam—plus the new swimming pool is fabulous, dotted with sun loungers. There’s also kite-making, cookery lessons, mask painting and a kid’s menu. Older children will enjoy boat rides down the river. The Cinnamon Hill room has extra beds available. Eco effort Lunuganga has eliminated single-use plastics (glass bottles with filtered water are in the bedrooms). There is recycling across the site. Bathrooms are stocked with locally-sourced products plus the estate donates excess rice from its small paddy field to the local village through nearby Dedduwa Temple. Community initiatives are also a big thing. Teardrop’s charitable foundation CARE provides food, medicines and reading glasses for low-income families. They also make regular donations to local orphanages, villages and temple events. In addition, Teardrop have set up a programme to employ young people who are keen to take their first steps in the hotel industry. Accessibility Lunuganga is a major challenge for the mobility impaired. There are a couple of ground floor bedrooms however all require steps to reach them. The other bedrooms are upstairs or in the garden on raised platforms. Anything left to mention? Sri Lanka’s southwest is awash with wonders to be explored, including an abundance of stunning beaches. Lunuganga makes for the perfect stop off for a few nights before continuing down the coast." - Harriet Compston
"Lunuganga is a work of art. Its resplendent gardens are an oasis of tranquillity in a rugged slice of Sri Lankan wilderness. The late Geoffrey Bawa, renowned architect of Sri Lanka’s Houses of Parliament, spent 40 years transforming this once abandoned rubber and cinnamon plantation – a few miles inland from the island’s west coast beaches – into a tropical idyll. He fashioned elegant Italianate gardens with courtyards, lily ponds, walkways, romantic pavilions and inspirational views over blissfully quiet Dedduwa Lake. This was his consummate legacy, the place he dreamed of retiring to, and now it's ours to enjoy. Among the greenery are 10 sumptuous rooms and suites housed in converted plantation buildings. Bawa’s iconic style – monochrome motifs, exquisite compositions of light and shade – shines throughout. You’ll get a guided tour of the garden, then you can retire to your chosen resting place – the sunset spot, the G&T corner, the meditation zone... you pick. There’s a spectacular infinity pool and a peaceful dining terrace beside the lake, where delectable fare is served by lovely staff. If you need some quiet respite after landing in Colombo or visiting busy Galle Fort, this is where to go. We left feeling totally Zen. Highs There are 15 acres of gardens – immaculate lawns of frangipani, palms and banyans – providing hours of idle wandering; garden tours are included in the rates The tranquillity is intoxicating – it’s just you and the jungle (monkeys, monitor lizards, mongoose, peacocks) Elegant suites are packed with quirky collections of art and antiques, especially the Gallery Studio Suite The hilltop infinity pool has a magnificent view of the lake and its forested banks The food was some of the best we tasted in Sri Lanka – try the curries! Both afternoon tea and daily social hour drinks are included in the rates Lows If travelling with children under 16, you'll be required to pay a child supplement The lakeside setting attracts mozzies – bring some good repellent The gardens are open to the public, so you might see some visitors wandering outside your room Some of the exterior paint and woodwork is a bit grubby, but maintaining the estate is a huge undertaking and weathering is part of its natural order There isn’t a lot to see in the immediate vicinity; you’re here to unwind" - Lucy Richardson
