Hannah E.
Yelp
Part of the draw, and much of the point, of kaiseki is variety - not only in cooking style (boiled, simmered, fried, etc) but also in ingredients (using what is fresh and in season), taste, and texture. In this sense, M Tempura's kaiseki meal didn't fit the definition.
Instead, they seemed to be leaning far too heavily on the richest, most decadent 'crowd pleaser' ingredients, regardless of whether they fit in with the rest of the dish, or with the march of dishes. Having a parade of truffles after caviar after wagyu may SOUND classy (and make you think the $127 you're spending is worth it) but after a few dishes of it, your stomach just feels heavy with richness and you're kinda over it.
So now that I've gotten that out of the way, I'll stress this: taken on their own and out of the context of the experience, most of the dishes are great to fantastic, with only a few outliers. I'll go dish by dish:
- seabass sando with shiso and lemon kosho: this was the amuse-bouche but probably should have been somewhere in the middle, as it was light and fresh with perfectly cooked yet strong-flavored fish. It would have been a nice way to break up the rich flavors of the rest of it.
- chawanmushi: putting this second was... a choice. Very umami, stuffed with mushrooms, scallops, and trout roe. One problem with this dish was that the trout roe did not burst easily. I understand that means they're super fresh, but if you can't get at their flavor at all...
- spicy tuna stuffed in toasted inari with uni bechamel: OK, at first I was miffed that M Tempura would try to insert spicy tuna in an elevated meal, but I have to admit that I was eventually tickled by the way the uni bechamel looked like it was going to be some trashy mayo sauce but then resolved into a clean uni flavor
- wagyu with Korean arugula salad to be wrapped in pickled daikon: wonderful, fatty delicate meat, mingling with the vinegar of the pickled daikon and vinaigrette on the salad. Perfect, no complaints about this one.
- ika, kaluga caviar, and wakame nestled in a banana leaf with dashi butter: also LOVED this dish; the squid was soft and pillowy resting on the wisps of wakame, and I had never had kaluga caviar before, but it was slightly earthy and reminiscent of port fat. And I felt a personal connection to this dish: it tasted to the note like my favorite squid butter udon at my favorite udon restaurant.
- crab salad with lotus root chips, smoked trout roe, kanisu jelly, and garlic chive oil: this was the second exception to the rich umami-heavy dishes parade and was such a relief with its slightly acidic vinaigrette, sweet abundant spider crab meat, and airy chips, that tears came to my eyes when I tasted it.
- Shrimp, shiitake, lobster, and scallop/caviar tempura. This is where it kind of fell apart for me (surprisingly given the name of the restaurant). I'll say this: the tempura batter is divine, particularly the shattering airy quality they give to the shrimp. But the shrimp was just plain not fresh, with that funky aftertaste we all know well if we've had bad shrimp, the lobster was cold in the middle (I get raw lobster as sashimi; not sure if it works in hot tempura), and the scallop was quite good but by then, honestly, I was really sick of caviar.
- Dashi broth with cabbage-wrapped shrimp cake and shaved truffle: I actually did not eat this one. The same rotten shrimp flavor that was in the tempura pervaded the broth so thoroughly that nothing in the bowl was edible.
- Uni/ikura don: Perfection. I was so full and caviared-out at this point that I couldn't finish this either, but I made sure to get every beautiful orange tongue of uni with the (happy surprise!) REAL wasabi served with it! This is the best uni I've had since I left Los Angeles.
- Pre-dessert: on the menu this was brie ice cream, but our chef said they hadn't worked that out yet, so they were going to tempura-fry brie. At this point I wanted to be honest with him about how he was killing us with richness, so I (politely) said that I felt like at this point we couldn't take any more rich food and that it would be difficult to eat fried cheese. He did check with the kitchen to see if there was another option, but there wasn't, and there was no more discussion. I kind of hoped that he would take the feedback as an opportunity to have a discussion and possibly improve/learn, but he didn't. And the fried brie was COVERED in truffle shavings, of course.
- Raspberry shaved ice with yuzu sorbet: SO refreshing, again, such a relief, like the spider crab. The tiny basil leaves were the cherry on top. This dish kept me from walking out the door still feeling sick and truffly.
So, in summary: mostly great dishes, a few misses, but I wish someone had taste-tested this kaiseki meal as a full flight of dishes and recognized it was too one-note, too rich.