Michael Shen
Google
After a decade of living in NYC, I've found it. A place where the cooking is as good as my mother's.
Got there at ~7:30p assuming we'd have to order carry-out since it was close to closing. Ms. Lee not only welcomed us in, but turned on a space heater and quickly brought out a soul-warming bowl of chicken soup. We ordered the salt and pepper chicken, egg with tomato (iykyk), and two beef noodle soups. She chuckled at us and told us to make it one beef noodle - there was no way we'd finish two.
Salt and pepper chicken - nicely fried, golden crust, not overly salted. Egg and tomato - a little bit of preserved vegetable in it for salt, cooked to a perfect consistency. The stunner of the meal? That beef noodle soup. The bowl must have weighed a couple pounds. Beef was fall-apart tender, without being too fatty, and included a good amount of tendon. And that broth - a richness of flavor that may only be exceeded by 永康牛肉麵, where my dad used to go when he was in college. She brought a second bowl of broth because the first (very large) bowl was overflowing with beef and noodles already. And a container of her homemade chili oil.
On our way out (with copious leftovers), she gave us a container of purple rice and another of pumpkin soup, refusing tips because "this is a family restaurant".
Don't venture to Mama Lee's for the decor, for predictable opening hours, or to have the avant-garde Taiwanese food in town (886, win son, etc.). Go because it's been 10 long years since you've gotten to go back to see your extended family in Taiwan and you want the food you were fed there as a kid when you visited every summer.
If you'll excuse me I'll be tucking into these leftovers for the rest of the weekend.